I just sheared off a lug bolt on the passenger side rear wheel. Bought a new one. Took the wheel off. Not sure what to do next. The hub doesn't appear to be able to come apart from the wheel. How do I separate the two pieces? Trying to save some money by not carrying it toyota to get reemed... **cough** excu$e me... repaired. Any and all help appreciated. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Check with your local auto parts store if they might have a bolt extractor kit in their loaner program. If not they have bolt extractors to sell. Good luck.
Yes thats what happened but still just not quite my problem. There are no brake calipers on the hub. The brakes I think are inside the wheel housing. Its getting the hub apart is my problem. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
You have to remove the brake drum and you'll see the hub assembly shown in the photo above. You may need a couple of M8x1.25 machine screws to remove the brake drum. They're known to seize on there pretty well. You'll see two 8mm diameter holes in the drum. Here's a parts blow-up of the hub. In the past I've always been able to punch broken studs out with a heavy drive punch, but the puller shown above would be a much better idea. There's an expensive speed sensor on this hub I wouldn't want to jar too much. You may want to check the rest of the studs for damage while you're at it. This is one reason I rotate my own tires, using a torque wrench. Sometimes garages use a bit too much torque with an air wrench.
This is EASY. Get a replacement wheel stud & nut FIRST from your local auto part store, and a stack of washers about 1/2 as long as the stud. Remove 1) Remove tire 2) Remove brake drum (large dirty thing under wheel/tire) 3) Hit broken stud with large hammer, may take a few whacks and a punch to get it all the way thru 4) Remove broken stud from hub Install 1) insert new stud thru hub from the back side 2) lightly oil the stack of washers (engine oil from dipstick will work) 3) install washers onto stud 4) thread new wheel nut onto stud with the FLAT side inward & tapered side outward 5) use the lug nut wrench to tighten the nut until the stud is fully seated in the hub 6) remove nut and washers 7) install brake drum 8) install tire and TORQUE the lug nuts to ~85 ft-lbs Your stud broke because someone did NOT TORQUE the lug nuts properly at some point in the past. Over torqueing of lug nuts is THE reason studs break and wheels fall off. Air tools are a NO-NO, except to remove the nuts and run them down GENTLY.
3.5) Order a new rear hub-bearing assembly to install down the road when this bearing starts to fail n miles after being beaten with large hammer. (Good news, new assembly will come with its own studs installed.) To avoid step 3.5, use a puller like that shown in post 7 instead of banging with a hammer. -Chap
Ever done this??? The studs are not held in firmly, in most cases a good solid "tap" will move them, FAR lower forces than cornering at speed while on a rutted road.
It seems like you're comparing numerators here, accurately enough as far as that goes. The momentum change of a 3000 pound car being flung around a 180 is a lot higher than that of a metal hammer rebounding off a metal stud. The thing is, as far as instantaneous force on the bearing, the denominator matters too. What's the time interval over which that momentum change happens? Shot in super-slo-mo, that metal-on-metal hammer rebound is orders of magnitude shorter than the fastest high-speed cornering you may have survived. When you divide the numerator by that tiny denominator, you get forces large enough to surprise you. Not only that, while you're taking that corner, the bearing balls are rolling all over the races. The hammer blow catches the balls in one position, and can leave their indentations ("brinelling") in the smooth bearing races. Bearing failure: causes and cures. Once those brinelling marks are present, the bearing is on the road to noise and accelerated failure. To answer your question, I haven't had to replace a bearing after hammering it, but chalk that up to not hammering around bearings. Toyota goes out of their way to provide alternatives (like the M8x1.25 holes tapped into their brake rotors, so you always have a way to remove those without banging on them) and to write up repair procedures that use pullers and controlled application of force. Now, sometimes you're in a situation where you want to replace the bearing assembly and it's stuck in the knuckle to the end of days, and you can have a grand old time banging that out, since you already aren't planning to reuse it.... -Chap
If you don’t have wheel stud remover and you need to remove the stud. You can minimize the impact on the bearing by beating the stud out with the wheel on the car. Added weight of the wheel and brake disc/drum will dampen the impact.
I think the moment that really drove home for me the connection between theoretical and practical was when I learned, in high school, why I can thump my fist on the table. I mean, what's more practical than that? Thump! But then, why isn't it Swoosh!, since the table's made of atoms with loads of empty space between, and so's my hand. Hmm.... Turns out that nice satisfying thump happens because of distance-squared appearing in the denominator for Coulomb force. What just stopped my fist with a bang is algebra. Never saw "theoretical" and "practical" quite the same way after that. -Chap
