A week ago I purchased a 2007 Prius package 3 with 130,000 miles. I was just looking for some cheaper transportation to replace my VW Passat TDI, being purchased back by VW for a great price, and the Prius fit the bill! Anyways, I was rotating the tires today and noticed both strut boots are torn pretty badly. I should have been a little more dilligent on my pre-purchase inspection but that doesn't matter now. I don't think the boots have been torn too long since the piston rod underneath is still very shiny and clean. Here are my options (I think): Just replace the boots (Not sure this is even possible, likely remove the strut anyways) Replace entire strut, this seems easy enough, I have done this on other vehicles in the past. Replace strut, strut mount and springs. I just noticed that some places sell this as a kit, I wonder if it makes sense to do it all Replace all of the above plus control arms, tie rods ends (inner and outer) and ball joints. I only wondered about this since I kinda would have it all apart and would need an alignment after anyways. Also, what are everyone's opinions on genuine Toyota parts versus the Dorman, Moog, Beck/Arnley..... Keep in mind this car has 130,000 but it still in great shape otherwise and I really do enjoy it. I plan on keeping the car for the next 3-5 years. Thanks
I suggest you do a portion of #3, replacing the front struts, strut mounts, and boots (which are called upper insulators in the Toyota parts catalog, BTW). You may also want to replace the lower rubber insulators which separate the spring bottoms from the struts. Exclude the springs unless you notice appreciable sag, then replace them. I would not replace the control arms, tie rods or ball joints unless your inspection reveals a problem. I would use the correct Toyota parts. Here is my post about replacing the front struts, written seven years ago. Hints Regarding Replacement of 2G Front Struts | PriusChat
Avoid the no name brand complete strut assembly (Unity, Sense, ProForce). Remember, you get what you pay for. Since you plan to keep for 3-5years, spend $ on quality parts. Replace the rears. They will be gone; assuming the originals still on them.
Broken strut boot really isn’t reason to change anything. Struts can work for years without the boot even in bad weather conditions and salted or gravel roads. But of course you might still want to replace the struts because of condition, miles, or age.
I second the previous post that says leave it alone. On all my cars I have never seen one 10 years old with boots intact. Still the struts perform their function. Bad or weak struts are an issue that may lead to tire wear or poor braking. Of course if you have good roads less of an issue.struts keep the tires in contact with the ground when they are working. Totally shot struts may rattle when you go owner bumps and may show signs of fluid leaking from the seal . I typically listen for noise and make sure it isn't a bushing or sway link.I had a 95 Toyota corolla that I bought used and there was some paperwork that the original owner had a lifetime warranty. Struts are made to last and if you are lucky enough to have good roads and you avoid potholes like me they can last the lifetime of the car.
It has been proven objectively that worn struts/shocks WILL lead to abnormal tire wear, INCREASED braking distances, and poor handling. The noise you state will most likely be from the strut mount. A "clunk" sound would be the strut/shock bottoming out. Nothing that is used regularly lasts. Good roads will make suspension components last longer for sure. Front struts replaced after 7 years, 127K miles. Compression to full extenstion duration. new: 7 seconds old Right: 57 seconds old Left: 18 secondsNo abnormal suspension noise. No abnormal tire wear. No bottoming out. You just don't realize the degradation, b/c its slow, a daily driver, causing younto be accustomed to the deteriorating changes. If you had an identical car w/ unused or new suspension replacement parts for a comparison, you would know. Replace struts/shocks to maintain OPTIMUM handling and braking characteristics.
