Pierced tire, now warning lights + braking problems?

I'm wondering if a wiring harness got damaged by the strap.

I believe ABS has to be functional for regenerative braking to be allowed.

 

The Prius has a diagnostic computer connection called OBD. When you take the car to the dealer, the technician will attach the computer and determine the causes of the errors you're seeing. Clearly there is more damage than flat tire. It could be something fairly simple, such as the electrical ABS sensor connection was damaged when the strap hit it. But we can't guess via Internet. The service advisor isn't a technician and they usually don't know what they're talking about. But that car needs to go into the shop so a technician can fix it.

We could help you better attack the problem, but if you can't get past lug nuts, maybe this one should go to the dealer.

 

always check tire.

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I think you could have just plug repaired that.

 

He probably could have, except the spare tire wrench is short and whoever tightened those bolts over did it. I don't carry plugs either when a car has a spare.....

MT2L03 ?

 

My workflow with a flat:

1. Put on spare, stow flat.
2. Drive home (just warmer, easier to work).
3. Plug repair flat, reinstall on car, consider it permanent repair.

 

I just did a plug on a runflat, my third plug as far as I can remember. I knew the tire stores will not touch tires with nails/screws outside the belted area. It was really hard pushing the plug in. Maybe it's my weak musculature or they are really stiff, or both....

MT2L03 ?

 

Similarly, the last plug repair I did was also very tough to push in. It was some sort of heavy concrete punching nail I think, and it had gone in at a very shallow angle (my son's car). The tire was pretty much completely flat too, so pushing in the plug it would start to cave in as you push. With my son trying to keep the tire shape and me pushing the needle thing we got it through: guess the shallow angle meant more distance to get through. They drove on it just a few more months, and we've now swapped to a new set on those rims, waiting for spring to go back on.

 

I've enlarged small holes through the steel belts with a larger bit and power drill to make plugging the tire much easier. I've done it several times and they've all lasted the life of the tire/tread.

 

Yeah I think that was the issue with me. I'm paranoid I'll go to enlarging the hole, likely not the case, and when you want to have clean/fresh rubber too.

 

That looks like a piece of bungee cord or tire chain tightener.

The tire replacement likely didn't cause those. The rubber strap whipping around the brake assembly probably did, breaking or disconnecting something electrical or hydraulic.

Prompt repair is very important for your safety.

The tire pressure warning doesn't light up until a significant amount of pressure is lost. Looking at your picture, it is quite possible that it didn't leak very fast, thus not triggering that warning light.

 

I saw something on the road that looked like it might be the culprit, and attempted to take a pic without getting a ticket!!!

Probably snapped and left that attached to the tire!

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With a jumper wire and some counting of blinks, you can get the codes from the skid control computer saying what it thinks is wrong. That would give some direction.

Somebody with a vehicle comm interface and Techstream can also read what the skid computer thought the wheel speeds and g forces were, the last four times it detected a possible skid.

If it shows the wheel on the affected corner going 0 rpm, then I'd expect earlier posters are right about the wheel speed sensor wiring just getting damaged.

If nothing shows 0 rpm, but the corner with the new tire just looks to be rotating more slowly, I'd wonder if the original tires were somewhat worn, and the single new replacement tire, without being shaved to a similar diameter, just isn't a good enough rpm match.

-Chap