I've been using the CC EVSE for years without any issues. Cars included a PIP, Rav4 EV, and Focus EV.
I installed a 30 amp model. Works really well. I home I ended up buying this and have been very pleased so far Dostar Duosida 16A 3.84kW Portable Charging Station 25' length - EVSE – BSA Electronics
[QUOTE="I home I ended up buying this and have been very pleased so far Dostar Duosida 16A 3.84kW Portable Charging Station 25' length - EVSE – BSA Electronics [/QUOTE] This is the one I purchased for $165 delivered. Love it.
Unfortunately, it's in the laundry room, not the garage. However, the laundry room is adjacent to part of the garage, so all they have to do is cut through the wallboard in the garage to get to the wires. Doesn't seem like a $700 job, does it?!
Yes, it is. More accurately, replacing the socket in the laundry room with a blank plate. There really wouldn't be any drywall work needed, other than cutting a hole on the opposite-side drywall in the garage. They say that Code does not allow both sockets to be present, and can't even add a switch to choose which socket is active.
You could pull the wire for them and ask for a new estimate. Then all they are doing is attaching a socket.
Conceptually, I suppose going to do almost all of the work, and simply ask them to "bless" it has code compliant (assuming that it is, of course)! Actually, I'm doing this through a City-of-Austin-sponsored program where I get a rebate for half the cost. However, that seems like a net loss and if I'm spending twice as much as I really need to!
Where's the payback with an EVSE? We run electric all we can, but even the cheap Chinese unit and DIY wiring won't pay off for us. The amount of gas we use if the car isn't fully charged in the time it's plugged vs. fully charged is a couple of cups of gasoline.
it's not always about payback. some people just need to charge more often, and don't have enough time between trips to wait on the L1. sometimes, time is money. and these days, at 2 dollar gas, payback doesn't even come into play.
It's also about future proofing in case we end up with other plug-ins and want to share between cars or cars that require a bit more oomph.
if you run your prime like a true phev, you won't care about charging time. you have a very efficient vehicle, whether gas or electric. more power to you. some of us just like driving ev, and for me, at 24 cents a kWh, it's costing me big time.
We have two Clipper Creek units, both HCS-40P, 32 Amp Level 2 with NEMA 14-50 plugs, with 25' cables. One we use for our Plug-in Prius and the other for a Leaf. The oldest unit is about 3-4 years old. We had an EVSE from another company prior that we had to return due to a defective unit and very poor customer service. No problems so far with the Clipper Creek units and they have a reputation for reliability and customer service.
Electrical breakers are derated to 80-percent of their capacity (for safety). Therefore, a 30 amp breaker is sufficient, as long as the wire is properly sized and no other load is added to the circuit.
That was not my suggestion. Turn off the breaker!!!!! Verify that the socket you are going to replace has lost charge The breaker side is already installed; The run is installed; So ... Disconnect the wires from the old dryer socket Pull the wire bundle out of the wall and call an electrician. The high initial price quoted is due to the subsidy: the electrician wants all of it AND what he might ordinarily charge. Don't go through the subsidy program; or at least do not let the electrician know if you help it. You might want to youtube the socket wiring -- it is really simple and what I call idiot proof. YMMV Working in the breaker box is a bit more difficult, and the reason I called an electrician.
Thanks for the thoughts. If I can't find a good installation price, I might just stick with the 120V charger (until we get a Tesla Model 3 or similar in a few years). It's not so much the money as such (heck, a few hundred after blowing $35K plus tax!). The main thing it will help with is after-work errands: I could get almost half a battery charge while I eat dinner on level-2; obviously quite a bit less on level-1. Also, level-2 charging *might* kill the battery more quickly over time.
Charging is limited to 3.3 kW, while the most casual driving in EV, say at 30 mph on a level road is close to double the power. If you are really concerned about the effect of L2 charging on the battery, driving in EV mode should give you nightmares.
Admittedly, it's not entirely a matter of practicality for me. I confess I just have a partly-rational/partly-irrational disgust for gasoline and ICEs... However, there are some further practical reasons for going that route: I really like the quiet of EV operation. We have a currently-empty 240V circuit, and in fact it might be the only circuit in the house with enough Amps left on it. We'll probably be getting a pure EV along the lines of a Tesla Model 3 in a few years, so we'll probably need it in the not-too-distant future anyway.
I'll be ordering mine on Tuesday and in my case i don't have a garage. The closest outside outlet is 30-35 feet from where i would be parked. I have yet to find a charging cable over 25 ft. If i have to run wire for a new outlet it might as well be 240V.