But my 6-year-old Dell, properly maintained, is still like new. And 3rd-parties make Dell replacement batteries. I had to replace one in another's machine and it was $29.
I try to always keep them above 20%. But the biggest gain is not having them at 100% constantly while they are running, and thus hot.
Sure. Electrons. Batteries produce (or store) them through chemical processes. Electronics USE them by routing and conduction techniques. They are entirely different.
The usual specifications for batteries, the data sheets, are for a specific chemistry and part number. These are not 'generic' data sheets and it would be wrong to try an apply them to what is a new product. Where is the equivalent analysis for: steering assembly, suspension parts, transmission, engine, and even body interior? As a general rule, heat is the enemy, so first get some instrumentation to monitor the battery temperature. Without metrics, everything else is speculation and not terribly useful. If this bothers you, look at battery instrumentation; OBD and independent. Install enough so you can measure what the traction battery is doing; record the data, and; share it. You're in one of the few owner areas where we actually do these things and WE SHARE! We're not here to belittle folks but encourage and support a free and independent search for knowledge. But I for one am not terribly interested in passive chit-chat. Rather, I'm looking for collaborators, peers and wanna be individuals who will work together to figure this wonderful car out. Bob Wilson
The car is rated at 133MPG-E which means roughly 3.9kwh/mi. The car is advertised with a range of 22 to 25 miles. This would require in the range of 5.6 to 6.4kwh of battery juice or a SOC range of 63% to 72%, well above the 45% range suggested (as a possibility) in this thread. I'm not an electrical engineer, fwiw.
In the past some have said slower charging helps a little. But I don't own one. If I did I would try to be easy on my garage circuit if I thought I could select a slower charge rate - which I am thinking Prime may allow slower opton..
Dell has Dell Battery Meter and Dell Command Power Manager for that. Merged, please, use multi quote. Thanks Nothing "may" about it - right there in the owner's manual is how to reduce maximum charge rate to 8A. That won't save your battery though, since all the charge rates (including CHAdeMO in Japan) are pretty slow - really, really slow on AC.
The numbers were not measured yet for the Prime. With the PiP it is ~62% (from 85% to 23% SOC). As for your calculation based on EPA results, note that EPA measures electrical energy drawn from the wall (i.e. what you pay) and 133 mpge and 25 miles gives 6.3 kWh from wall, depending on charging losses this may turn out to be 5.3-5.7 kWh 'battery juice'.
Although the Prime is new this year, the Prius Plug-in is not. The Prime is just an upgraded version of it with a different name. Twice the EV range on the lithium pack. There is a Plug-in forum on here you can check out. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
The battery chemistry in the Prime is different from the PiP, but how that effects long-term degradation is not known at this time. Toyota only warrants against failure of the traction battery, not against degradation. Unlike Nissan (for the Leaf), Toyota has never stated exactly how much degradation is considered a failure. Presumably, as long as there is enough capacity to run in HV mode, the battery has not "failed".
Have you any evidence of Toyota behaving in an unhelpful "letter of the law" way in regard to it's warranty?. I find your stated view unwarrantedly suspicious and negative. Toyota have a enviable reputation for build quality and reliability, which they will not want to lose- and they ensure that their designs over deliver on longevity, IMHO. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
The topic has been discussed at length on the first-generation PiP forum. I pre-ordered and bought one of the first PiPs off the boat, and recently sold it to buy a Prime Advanced, so I am not exactly a "Toyota hater". The first generation plug-ins are showing modest (and inevitable) degradation in capacity. Folks who complain about the degradation in capacity are told that losing full capacity is not a warranty issue. If the car can operate in HV mode, then that is all that is promised. This is not an "evil Toyota" issue; it is just an unavoidable result of the chemistry of Li-Ion batteries. They wear out. That being said, the reliability of the hybrid system in the first generation plug-in has been up to Toyota's usual high quality standards, and there is no reason to believe that the same is not true of the second generation. In fact, with improvements in understanding Li-Ion chemistry, one can expect the Prime to hold up better with respect to battery capacity than the first generation PiP. Toyota is the undisputed master of hybrid technology, so much so that one of their competitors (Ford) licenses their hybrid technogy.
At least Toyota owners aren't facing what some Nissan Leaf owners are. The following link was posted in my work EV-interest mailing list: Lessons learned from early electric car: 2011 Nissan Leaf at 90,000 miles
The batteries are likely to be worked harder in a BEV than in PHEV. BEVs don't have to worry about mandatory emission warranties that cover hybrid batteries.