Guessing the new hybrid batt sold by Toyota comes with all the peripherals? That MUST be the reason for the $1300 core charge. Anyone bought one? Just remove my batt and taking it to my brother's shop so he won't have to tie up $$$ in the core. He has ordered me a new Toyota hybrid batt that should be here on Fri. He ownes my old repair shop. Just want to make sure I don't need to remove the periperals. Thanks in advance. BTW, 2007 Prius. Yes, I know I could replace individual modules, but what's the point at 10 years old? Lynn
The new one does not come complete. It does not come fully assembled. Quite a bit of assembly is required. You need many parts from the old battery to transfer to the new one. End cap, bolts, nuts, computers, separator, etc.
Also find out from the Toyota dealer how they expect the battery to be returned. They have particular requirements. I understand your point about not wanting money tied up in the core, but because of what Eric has said in his post above, I wouldn't return the old battery until after you have installed the new one. That way you do not return the old battery with a part you may need for the new one. It would be the safer way for anyone who has not done it before.
The large core charge is to make sure the old modules and case comes back to Toyota and don't go places that cause the company increased liability from improper disposal. Always make sure your new battery is completely switched over into your car and functioning before you bring the old one back for credit on the core.
Agreed. You want the old and the new one in the same place at the same time. Do not return the old one until you are sure you have all the needed parts off of it. Also there are very specific instructions on how to return the core. Including bagging/covering the connectors, as well as correct placement of the non-conductive mays over the terminals. Also supplying data from the car for record keeping by Toyota. Don't mess up the core you are returning or YOU WILL NOT GET THE CORE FEE BACK.
You were correct. No peripherals on the new battery. Broght both of them back home to do the change over. Took way longer to change over all that stuff than it did to put the battery back in the car. Got her all hooked up. I am reasonably certain that everything is exactly where it belongs. hooked up the 12 volt battery. Put in the big orange plug. Of course, the warning light for "open door" (BTW, when is a door not a door? When it is a jar.) Closed all the doors and the trunk. Put key fob in. Put foot on the brake, and hit the Power button. All the warning lights come on as you would expect until the car starts. No start. Is there something else I need to do to get it to start after sitting a few days with the 12 volt unhooked, and the HV battery out? I see a key reset button iunder the column. Anything I need to do with that. Key fob locks and unlocks the doors as it should, so I would thing the key fob is being recognized by the car. There is a red flashing light on the dash, even with the key removed. It is the shape of a car, but I can't make it out very well, as it only stays lit for a nano second. Is that some kind of anti-theft? One other thing: never saw the "ready" light come on. Any help would be appreciated. I would like to get this going today before I take my core back.
yaoaoatgyf, You are not the first to make that mistake..... And you won't be the last. I hope you used all the new parts that were supplied. 4 new supply cables. 2 new nuts with captured washers 4 new nuts 2 Foam baffles Etc.... And make sure that you properly torqued the nuts on the supply cables and power supply to the correct specifications. Using a torque wrench. Guessing is not a good idea. You can cause arcing if the cables loosen. It only takes a moment to correctly tighten them. It is worth the time to do the job right.
yep I was guilty of the orange plug mistake.. (a few times) when you don't work on them regularly its easy to forget.. now I put a sign on the plug, push down dumbass......
