Incorrect statement. IF......the battery is dead, it won't work in either application and the test will show that. IF.....the battery test indicates that it will deliver 200 amps to run a starter motor, then it certainly should boot up the computers in a Prius. Now.....sometimes batteries are intermittent......and that's the reason that having a voltmeter is important so you can check it while it is failing.
Am I being naive to think perhaps it's as simple as bad battery connectors? Once they are "clamped" tighter they work? And yes, like everyone else, I'm just a little curious as to exactly what replacing the "Synergy Drive System" represents. Bit of a semantic argument but Hybrid Synergy Drive is a term Toyota pretty much uses to describe "Everything Hybrid" that makes a Prius work. It's not like Hybrid Synergy Drive is a singular replaceable part.
Exactly what who said ?? And you need to explain this "left the car on for 11+ hours" because there is NO good reason to do that.......and you likely CAUSED the present problem by doing that.
Whether it is a good reason is debatable, but the reason was to charge up the 12 V battery. Umm, no. Leaving the car on will do no harm.
OP missed that question, and it seems sorta lost in the noise. Maybe just brain fart, who knows. For reference:
An absolutely TERRIBLE way to charge the 12 V battery. What if the thing that caused the battery to be flat in the first place is still happening......and there really is no charging taking place ???
If it was the only option, it is better than doing nothing. But, yes, there are better options when time and money allow. True, but I guess it wouldn't take long to figure that out.
Attn: Root mean square. Check for current flow off both ends of your 12V battery battery. Do you know how to do this? You seem to have a continuous drain on the 12V. Start out using the highest current option on the multimeter and then work downrange. Careful, you don’t want to peg the meter. Start testing with nothing on and slowly turn one accessory one at a time. Where was the last place you worked? that’s always a good start.
I have had two similar experiences working on an Rx 400h, and a Highlander hybrid both 2006 models. 1.For the RX 400h, the HV battery system kept drauning, each time the start button is applied. Initially, thought was a discharged HV battery problem. Removed the pack, and charged it up, and fixed it back in the car. Same thing happened(discharged, and never started the car). The fix was replacing the inverter/converter assembly(what in my view, the OP might mean by "synergy drive system". This fix, solved the problem. 2. For the Highlander, the aux battery kept draining within some minutes when even a new battery was brought in. Initially I thought problem was from the old aux stock battery that came with it from the USA! Tested all batteries with a DVM, and were all OK. Decided to open up the HV pack, and low and behold, discovered some water pounding just at the contactor assembly (system main relays assembly). From my investigations, the contactor's were shorting the juice off of each of the aux batteries that were brought. Here's the dynamics: Aux powers the relays, and the contactor's gets energised, and opens the HV circuitry, thereby powering the inverter assembly (mg1+mg2). But since the contractors were shorting as a result of corrosion on the floor of the pan, immediately the aux battery sends power to the contactor's to open, they simply stst in the stuck closed position, and develops tremendous amount of heat, which if not taken care of, would burnout the contactor's, etc. That way, enormous amount of energy is being used without any commensurable returns(inverter kicking on, to recharge the 13V battery). Replacing that assembly of contractors, and treating the floor of the battery pack of corrosion, helped solved the problem. So, in summary, check the HV pack of the car for signs of corrosion on the HV cabling, and system msun relay assembly. Fig1: Removed system main relays(contractors), and resistor on display Fig2,3&4: Disassembled system main relay assembly, showing extent of corrosion. Fig5: Cleaning off the corroded part with engine oil, after scrapping off the rust Fig6: Installed a used system main relay assembly I got from a junked Highlander. Dxta
Fantastic job! and write-up and photos. See post 30,your problem is similar, a rather quick drain on 12V Bat. THEN when a fresh 12V is connected, the car starts right up. You have a dead short somewhere, a multi-meter can prove this. You may want to pop the cover in the HV pack. Use all precautions! Disconnect HV Emergency disconnect switch! If probing, checking voltage, only use ONE hand.
@Andyprius1 did you mean to post the above in another thread, to link them to this (the water infiltration info from @Dxta)?
Hmmm...requesting help, getting offers of help which are completely ignored without even so much as a 'no thank you', and still needing help but then disappearing for two days. Personally, I'm beginning to question the validity of this thread.....................
What amazes me about the OPs post is he doesn’t seem to recognize a large current drain from his 12V. I think you are right.
Well, trying to do my best to help! PS: I forgot to add! Be very careful when you jump start your aux batteries, during such times. There could be risks of shorting some of the fuses in the driver knee side fuselage. Well, in the case of the highlander I worked on, the previous technicians in their attempt to get the car started, used several 12V batteries trying to jump start the car. That led to a fuse underneath the driver side in the cabin, blowing. This caused the AC system to stop working. Dxta
