Sorry everyone on the last post of just Had to run due to a Fire two houses down. Garden hose frenzy until the pro showed up.
Final back, This is what has been going on in my son's car. P3030 Cannot communicate ECU to battery pack. This is what I have done: bus bars and all copper connectors have been cleaned as well as voltage sensors and ohmed out. All with zero resistance. All hybrid batteries have been load checked and terminals wire brushed and defective batteries replaced. All batteries over 7 volts and under 8. When paired have 15 volts off of each set. At the contactors I have 208 volts, contactors will not close. I have ohmed out all the temperature sensors and have seen the cooling fan run. Replaced the 12 volt battery and is reading 12.8 volts. I am thinking possible bad ECU? Cannot find bus voltage have voltage into the module, but the contactors will not close. Ordered a Mini-VCI J2534 and it lights up but will not communicate with the car through the computer. But, with a OBD2 I can see the P3030 but cannot get into history or any other codes. Does anyone have any suggestions?
The P3030 code means that somewhere there is a break in one of the voltage sensing wires. Double check your work on the wires. They are easy to break. The orange connector at the battery ECU could also be corroded. This sounds like the orange safety plug is not properly installed. It's a three step process. Push the plug in, flip the lever up, and then push the lever down. The third step trips up a lot of newbies.
Straw: 208 at the contactor should mean orange safety in correctly? To the op you missed something. I would take the ecu aprt and take a good look at the ecu connector pins see if any corrosion. Or corrosion on the ecu board itself. And brushing connectors may be masking corrosion running up the wire under the coating. Cut one of the brushed connectors off and pull the coating back. Must be replaced. And the mini vci is sometimes difficult to get working. I recommend people use a VXDIAG there on amazon for $77. It has techstream and is pretty plug and play. Or go on amazon and read there mini reviews lots of helpful info people have posted.
208vdc (HV) on the battery side of the contactors is present after the first 2 steps of the "safety disconnect installation procedure" are complete. The 3rd step "push down" connects the interlock circuit so the ecu knows the safety disconnect is installed and locked. On the driverside rear of the battery pack three cables connect to the battery pack. The largest one goes into the HV ECU, the medium one is 12v power for the relays/etc and the smallest one is for the safety disconnect interlock. The receiving end of the small cable (interlock) is a wire that is only a few inches long and plugs into the bottom of the safety disconnect receptacle. Sometimes this end of the wire gets forgotten about and doesn't get plugged into the bottom of the disconnect receptacle when reassembling the battery. This causes the ECU to think the safety disconnect is not installed.
Thanks for your help everyone, I pulled the entire battery bank apart. I used a gallon of vinegar, buffed everything with a wire wheel, used Brasso to clean everything. Charged a couple of battery modules, laid all the batteries out wired parallel to balance the rack. From the orange connector that goes to ECU to the terminals I have zero resistance and zero voltage loss. ECU pins are all clean. Checked the safety switch found that the aux relay would move sometimes when installing the plug. So with it making and breaking the reason for the P3030...Not more than one thing wrong. Yep. (Replaced safety switch) Bench checked the SMS contactors all closed with 0.03 being the highest resistance across the points Nut Driver installation VS Torque wrench, Had voltage on the negative, After torque down with my new 1\4 torque wrench no voltage on the negative side. Checked all the inputs to the Battery ECU all looked alright to a rookie eye to the Prius. (Replaced the ECU) Yahoo!! No P3030. NEW code P0AFA low voltage at the Hybrid Battery, I wet my fingers to check my Voltage at the pack is 210.8. Read an article last night saying you can jump the Hybrid battery thru the 12 volt tab at the drivers side fuse block. I don't think so 12 volts vs 200, Please advise on how to charge the Hybrid battery faster than two modules at a time. Yep got a new RC Battery Charger, that is how I trimmed off a couple modules last time. oh could this code be false? Should I reboot the car again by disconnecting my negative at the 12 volt side on the battery.
