Original Spark-Plugs are ''stuck',like welded on= What do you do to break them loose?

Try soaking them with something like PB blaster, Liquid Wrench, etc. for at least 24 hrs.

 

Googling, I see see "Lisle Spark Plug Extraction Tool". Hopefully doesn't come to that.

 

Like others have said use a good quality penetrating oil then several heat ups and cool down cycles with more penetrating oil in between.

How many miles?

 

Take it to a Pro Mechanic.
Simba

 

I'm idly wondering if an impact driver would be good? Or not...

Say a decent corded electric impact wrench.

 

"Kroil" or "Plus-Gas" and don't forget to use anti-seize when you replace them!

 

Penetrating oil like WD40 works wonders.

 

The other thing not mentioned with all the penetrating oil suggestions. Get a proper Long Reach Deep Well Sparkplug socket. I bought one for my plug change.

It did the job perfectly. It’s just the right length and holds the plug for removal and insertion.





iPhone X ?

 

Verify righty tighty lefty loosey

Not being a wise guy. I've seen even very senior mechanics do it. We're all still human. It's a bit unusual for all 4 to be stuck, unless last installer torqued them all a bit extra.

 

I was wondering how this is better than a regular 5/8” spark plug socket and an extension?

 

The only advantage I can think of is not running the risk of the socket staying behind in the well, when you try to pull it out on an extension. Especially a socket with rubber insert, after new plug is installed.

To avoid that risk taping the extension to socket connection helps.

 

l’m not saying standard deep plug sockets don’t work.

It’s like any other 5/8 deep socket as far as applying torque too it.

This socket is long enough that it doesn’t require use of an extension.

It was designed for deep recessed plug wells. You can physically grab the top of it when removing it and also get the tactile feel when installing the plugs (less likely to cross thread)

The rubber inserts can hold tight enough in some regular length plug sockets that they won’t let go easily.

Craftsman makes locking detent ball extensions just because of this reason. If you have those then their really is not much advantage too the extra length.

Yes , that is pretty much it. I’m sure taping the extension to the socket would aid in preventing this also.


iPhone X ?

 

Once he breaks a spark plug off the whole game changes. The car is down until he gets it out. If it is just routine maintenance and no problems with the way the car runs I would forget about it.

 

I agree with having a professional do it, the head is aluminum, the plug steel, turning the plug the wrong way and stripping the head will require a heli coil, definitly a job for a professional, doing it with a warm engine, bad idea.
A bit of penetrating oil is good, but then you really should change the plugs before driving, if you arced and the oil caught fire, bad idea.
Having the correct tools is good, getting good grip on the plug, and turning it off not on is important, a 12” socket wrench will give you the torque needed, have a vacume handy, nothing should fall into the cylinder, clean it well, and apply a tiny bit of non seize stuff as mentioned, and definitly use the correct replacement plug.
I always remove everything in the way so I can see well, the wipers, the metal cowel, any wires in the way, etc.
Remember to torque the new plugs correctly, btw, did you install the present plugs?
And what did You torque them to?

 

Mine were in there tight...it was like reelling in a 30-lb fish the whole way. But I just did it by hand. But at first I was worried that I was damaging the plugs...did not feel like it was unscrewing normally

 

If you don’t have the exact plug torque or a torque wrench, a good rule of thumb is thread in finger tight then go 1/6th to a 1/4 turn. Also, 142 inch lbs. is for that plug type.


iPhone X ?

 

Use a T-handle wrench to drive the spark plug socket. That way you equalize the lateral force; the socket stays completely coaxial to the spark plug- you'll never break a plug as long as you have enough room for this wrench to fit. (You'll always have enough room in a Prius.)

Apart from that- yeah... it's a game of heat and penetrating oil. Aluminum cylinder heads expand faster than steel spark plug shanks. Remove plugs from a hot head- but don't install the new ones until it cools.

 

I agree with the penetrating oil. Spray some in the hole, and let sit for 24 hrs without running the engine. If you move the plug, don't bring it straight out. Move it back and forth once it's loose to help the oil penetrate deeper. If it still doesn't move try the heat up method mentioned above.

 

Warm the engine up by driving it. Shut it off and then try to loosen them up. Once loose, let the engine cool and then remove. When installing new plugs,use anti-sieze compound to prevent

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