Resonator weld broken - fixes?

duck tape?

 

It is a safety hazard to drive the car with a damaged exhaust system and you should replace the failed parts.

 

Yeah, same thought.

 

Is that the input side to the muffler? Just go get an after market muffler installed.

 

Recently I'd noticed that the muffler seemed to have a hole, since when the ICE ran, the noise was rather obvious, so I had the local Midas guys take a look, sure enough the system needed a new muffler/pipe etc. I suggested that perhaps I might leave it, but the Midas chap warned me that nasty gases could be leaking into the cabin, so it really ought to be fixed (plus state inspection due in June 2019), so $450 later the Chuggy Pig is now nice and quiet, which is just as it should be! I'm sure the local Stealership would have suggested a completely new exhaust system, and charge me $1500!!

 

He’s right about the gases.
You can buy header paint at the auto store. If you paint the muffler connections when the muffler is new it will last years longer.

 

Reliability of the info on videos is all over the place. Proceed at your own risk.

Factory service manual is best.
Toyota TIS (Technical Information System), $20 for a two business day subscription. If the files are still CHM, this person figured out how to convert CHM to PDF. Toyota TIS download tips | PriusChat

Your local library should have access to Chilton or Hanyes manuals and even an online version of one of the two. Info in these two manuals is incorrect at times, but better than nothing. Quality of these manuals pales in comparison to the factory manual.

Be sure you don't reuse those bolts. Buy NEW bolts or go to a salvage yard to get the exhaust piece you need and bolts that are in good shape.

People have used heat and penetrating oil to help loosen rusted/stubborn bolts/nuts.

 

I'm not saying I don't work on exhaust pipes but that is one job I rarely do..
My old Prius made it 10 years on the original pipes when I traded it in.
I had the wife's 1989 Town Car up in the air for a fuel pump change last year
And ended up changing everything from the cats back.

 

I agree that the printed books for the Prius from Chilton and Haynes leave something to be desired, but for the 2006 Prius, the ChiltonLibrary online service available through public libraries has the text and illustrations from Toyota’s Repair Manual, Collision Repair Manual, and Electrical Wiring Diagram, reproduced under license. (See the Wiki page for more about this.)

 

Items 3 and 4 here?

Exhaust Components for 2006 Toyota Prius | Toyota Parts

Repair Manual excerpt attached:

 

I don’t think so: if the failed connection is at the rear of the sub muffler, just beyond the front floor panel brace in the second photo (which appears to have been taken looking towards the front of the car), that’s part of the front exhaust pipe assembly, part number 17410-21500, shown in catalog Figure 17-02, Exhaust Pipe.

I’m not sure why Toyota’s site says that part is no longer available and doesn’t show the list price ($2,084.61); it’s so high because the assembly includes the No. 1 and No. 2 three-way catalytic converters. If those are still serviceable, it might be worthwhile to see if a good muffler shop can make a repair.

 

I’m with you Padro one thing I don’t mess with is exhaust. He’s going to need the input side pipe too as that’s
Probably too short to reach.

Muller shop will burn that off real quick.

 

I see a lot of cars with pipes hanging and they just keep driving it that way. I always think once the catch it on something and do more damage to the system it will cost them more in the long run. Then there is the old muffler laying in the middle of the road for other people to hit.

 

Agree with others here - an aftermarket muffler for a Prius is about $70 online. Considering the cost, I would just go buy one and put it in. Just let some lubricating oil soak overnight on the bolts and use a good breaker bar.

If you have a welder, you could use a piece of tubing slightly larger than the pipe and then weld it over the tube and onto the muffler end. This is only possible if there's not too much rust on the exhaust pipe (which there probably is a lot of and is why it broke in the first place). However this isn't an easy job without removing the exhaust system from the car, and it will cost you more to pay someone to weld it than to just buy an aftermarket replacement.

 

Yeah OP's photos are not clear. Looking for clues in his picture, I'm thinking what I've marked in red is a crimped edge, and maybe the blue mark is the welded-on end of the hanger hook (might be seeing things on that...):



I think that points to the break being at the pipe entering the muffler, maybe...

Then there's this exchange:

Addendum: just noticed OP confirmed it's muffler. So water under the bridge.

Over the years it's always been muffler that fail first for us. Then the mid-section later.

 

First, that is not a "broken weld", it is a pipe rusted out.

Second, call around to independent muffler shops in the area.....if you have any. That's like "Sam's Muffler Shop".
Chains like Midas would be next but I have a personal dislike for most of them.

You REALLY need a solid method to lift the whole car at least 24 inches if you do this yourself.
The key is solid.
Otherwise it is a safety risk that you should NOT take, no matter how much money it might save you.

It might not even be doable unless you have some air tools to break things up and get the old one off.