All dash lights on. Codes and screenshots.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Luciano Munoz, May 12, 2019.

  1. Luciano Munoz

    Luciano Munoz Junior Member

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    Screenshot_20190512-102204_Torque.jpg Screenshot_20190512-102229_Torque.jpg

    I've attached the levels and error codes I am getting. At a cool start all the battery blocks are at 17. The codes state that blocks three and four may be failing but from this screenshot it doesn't seem that any blocks are on their way out.
    I am absolutely at a loss.
    After starting the HV Battery fan in the rear passenger side blows really loud and eventually reads as 6 num as you can see in the screenshot above. I believe that's really high though I can't for the life of me figure out why it's blowing so hard. I cleaned it thoroughly yesterday. And it ran fine for a few hours but then picked up and all the dash lights came on again.
    When driving the vehicle stalls when attempting to accelerate and fails to make it up hills with the RPMs kicking into overdrive. The battery was rebuilt about 10000 miles ago. Oil levels are fine. It's not safe to drive into any highway though. The only other thing I can think of is the fact that the coolant level is a bit low. Currently waiting on fancy Toyota coolant, SLLC, to arrive hoping a flush will work.
    However I'm throwing this out there in case anyone has any similar experiences, ideas, or tips for me thank you.
     
    #1 Luciano Munoz, May 12, 2019
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    welcome!
    how many miles on her?
     
    #2 bisco, May 12, 2019
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  3. Luciano Munoz

    Luciano Munoz Junior Member

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    Battery rebuilt 10k ago.
    Brake actuator was changed last September as well. That was a 3000 dollar fix.
     
    #3 Luciano Munoz, May 12, 2019
  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    The codes state that blocks three and four may be failing but from this screenshot it doesn't seem that any blocks are on their way out.

    Perhaps you are looking at different photos than you posted.........

    What do you see for block 3? I see 15.1 volts, which is ~1.x volts less than all the others, which tells me one of the modules in Block 3 (the 5th and 6th module from the non-ecu end) has an internal cell failure. Remember, each modules has 6 internal cells ~1.2 volts each @ nominal rating.

    Your blocks look to average about 16.6v. That would be 8.3 v per module. Each module has 6 internal cells. That would be ~1.4 volts per cell. One failed cell would drop the block voltage by ~1.4v, but typically it will be slightly more. 16.6-1.4= 15.2v. Close enough.

    Looks black and white to me........although I'm sure there are some gray area modules in there also...
     
    #4 TMR-JWAP, May 12, 2019
    Last edited: May 13, 2019
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  5. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    You report classic signs and symptoms of HV battery failure. Why are you at a loss accepting that the HV Battery is terminal?
    Signs:
    DTC P0A80

    Symptoms:
    Very common for fan to go into HIGH mode, b/c the failing/failed HV Battery pack is overheating.

    The vehicle requires BOTH the engine and the HV Battery pack to generate proper power. Dead/Dying HV Battery pack will NOT be able to provide the energy to the electric motor. The gas engine CAN NOT provide all the power, thus the lack of power/acceleration you report. High RPMS is likely due to the engine trying to recharge the bad HV Battery, and provide the power the car needs which the engine by itself can not provide.

    Correct.
    Lack of power = lack of acceleration = danger to everyone on the road.

    You did not report it, but the battery monitor likely shows wild swings from low SOC (State of Charge) (purple bars), to high SOC (green bars).
     
    #5 exstudent, May 13, 2019
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  6. Luciano Munoz

    Luciano Munoz Junior Member

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    The battery is still under warranty for 20000 miles luckily. The Delta SOC isn't swinging at all stays steady. If it is failing I'll just take it in with the warranty paperwork. Luckily the mechanic here is very helpful, if they don't want to do it for free I'll just replace the cells myself, not a big deal.
    I just don't think that the battery would be failing already. I want to have a bit more hope in the mechanic.
     
    #6 Luciano Munoz, May 13, 2019
  7. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Rebuilding the battery just means you put some old stuff in with the old stuff that was still ok. How many miles did you think you would get from rebuilding your battery? Only a brand new battery will last.
     
    #7 Skibob, May 13, 2019
  8. Luciano Munoz

    Luciano Munoz Junior Member

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    It was a refurbished battery that the mechanic placed in for the previous owner.
    I have no problem replacing the battery either. I can do just about anything I need to with the auto shop I have on base. They have just about anything I could dream up.
    I would like two more years out of the 05, then I plan on getting an AWD 2019 used.
    But I need something to help me transfer from military to civilian life.
     
    #8 Luciano Munoz, May 13, 2019
  9. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    The BEST Warranty is one you never need.

    You have the DTC, HV battery fan, and lack of power (due to dead/dying HV Battery).
    The swinging SOC is just another tell tale sign.

    The power of denial.

    The battery is composed of chemicals that degrade from use and the passage of time. Unfortunately, there is NO consistent and reliable way to determine how much more life is left in the individual modules or HV battery pack. Its not like a used tire where you can physically measure the tread depth and visually inspect the tire for unusual/excessive wear. Consequently, you would never expect a used tire to last as long as a new tire, either.

    Remember, rebuilt/remanufactured/reconditioned=used. The best of the worst modules are assembled together into a HV pack, and someone calls them "rebuilt/remanufactured/reconditioned," and sells them to the next victim. If you are fine with this, and accept the reality that a used battery will NOT last as long as a NEW battery, than enjoy.

    That is the cheapest option, but MOST UNRELIABLE option. You are not alone in that view and the common regret. Remember, TIME IS MONEY TOO. You can always get more money (pay raise, 2nd job, reduce expenses, sell belongings, etc), but you can never get more time.

    Ultimately, it is your car, time, and money. May your outcome be good.
     
    #9 exstudent, May 14, 2019
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