2012 Prius oil consumption - need help

The molybdenum content increased again with the unofficial reformulation to SN+:

Genuine Toyota Synthetic SAE 0W-20 API SN

Keep in mind that there are different types of Molybdenum on the market. Infinieum's Trinuclear moly can provide a similar effect at a reduced dosage.

Regardless, it is clear from the PQIA analysis that the TGMO 0w-20 is loaded with VII's as evident by the low viscosity at 40C, the high Viscosity Index and the high volatility. This is a combo that is likely to have adverse effects on piston ring deposits.

 

So you are saying that the new Toyota spec'ed, heavily researched, oil is worse?!?!!? How can this be?!?!?! /sarcasm.
I know we put a lot of faith and trust in the $$ that is spent in R&D by these manufactures, but we also forget they are in the business of making money and if they make more $$ by having parts "wear out" in a reasonable amount of time, they will be happy to do it. What's the term....oh yeah..."planned obsolescence"

this is eerily similar to reading the boat forums about what type of oil to use in a Ford 351w. 15w-40 or 20w-50, mobil1 vs valvoline vs Amsoil vs royal purple, does it have enough ZDDP, should i use an additive, etc... People have used all types of oil for that 351 all with 40+ years of success (and 40+ years of failures too)

I got in a discussion yesterday with a member on a different forum about headlights. He was saying how they spend a lot of time and money in headlight design. That might be true, I have no idea, but it also wouldn't surprise me if they just make a headlight that works for given parameters and call it quits instead of making it the best.

 

Toyota 0W20 has always been formulated in this manner. Since day 1, it has been an oil that is loaded with VII.

 

So VII means Viscosity Index Improvers. Are they good, bad, indifferent?

Help understanding VII - Bob Is The Oil Guy

FWIW, I'm the "poster boy" for Toyota 0W20; it's all I've ever used.

 

Yes, exactly, and that is why I have been avoiding it in favor of synthetic 5W-20.

 

FWIW, I'm using Amazon 0W-20 on my 2015 CT200h. It's a great oil everyone should look into. It's designated API SN Plus as well which has advanced protective properties.

 

Would you recommend this for 12,000 mi OCI?

 

So I watched Project Farm on YouTube and he did a test of oil to see how Amazon compared to major brands. Special additives aside, just based on temps Amazon oil tested better. So not knowing any better, I jumped ship and got 5 qts @ $26ish without filter (auto stores sell 5 with filter for $36). Just did an oil change and finally used my amazon oil. After 1k miles oil so far so good. But since mobile1 with filter locally is $36 I’ll just keep going that route.


-Spiral

 

Same stuff as Walmart Supertech and several other brands that buy from the same supplier, WPP. It is fine, though "great" might be overstating.

 

If that oil for no reason made it into my crankcase, the OCI would be set to 3,000 mi.

 

It meets the same standards corresponding lines of major brands do, including SN Plus and Dexos1, Gen2.

 

Yeah, kinda like competing gas brands?

 

Haha I don’t think there is a single forum where an ICE is involved that doesn’t have a cvs receipt list of oil debates. (Cue mIchael Jackson eating popcorn)

So many favourites out there all with success stories. Obviously you can’t go “wrong” using the car manufacturer’s oil, but after that, are there solid studies out there that should be referenced to make a better case for which oils are bad/good?


-Spiral

 

@Mendel Liesk, I looked through some other threads, I like your idea of just getting bulk oil from the dealer. Do you just use a red “gas” can or a yellow one or something else? And how does one discuss this with the dealer, “I’d like to purchase 2.5 gallons of your finest 0w-20 oil please”?


-Spiral

 

Yeah I emailed the service manager. I'm pretty sure I'm THE bulk-oil-walking-out-the-door customer. It'd be nice if it caught on though. I'm using one of these:



Didn't cost that much I'm sure. I don't use that spout at all, just serves as a cap.

I'm also getting 5W20 for our daughter's Pilot, and doing 0W20 changes on our son's CX-5, so I'll sometimes need transfer from the No-Spill to 4 and 1 liter bottles occasionally. Besides lower priced oil, the main thing that was bugging me was all the empties, going the Walmart route.



I also picked up one of these, a Dynaline 4.5 liter graduated pitcher:



Works very well, no dripping or leaks. I don't wipe it out after use, just drain it as much as practical, than cover the top with a plastic bag.

 

Well, Thanks to Mendel, I will no longer be using anything other than Genuine Toyota Oil.

Yellow is Toyota 0w-20. Blue is Ford 5w-30. And the cost for the oil needed for each oil change was considerably cheaper going bulk.