Driving the other day and all my warning lights came on. Car seem sluggish and after stopping i shut the car off and tried to start it again,nothing. The ready light wont come on at all so I had it towed home. The ready light not coming on seems to be something new for me as I've had main battery issues before and replaced it just 5 months ago along with the 12v. Main is a Greenbean replacement. Thanks in advance for any advice
You would need to check the codes on the car to know the problem. If you experienced sluggishness and the car didn't just shut down while driving, then you most likely have a HV Battery issue. If the car just shut down without the sluggishness feeling, then you would most likely have an inverter pump that shorted. Either way to eliminate the inverter pump issue, you can check the engine compartment fuse marked "AM2", if that fuse is blown, then your inverter pump has failed. I do not think this is the case as you mentioned the sluggishness. The car not starting again may mean it's a P0AA6 error, which is usually a high voltage isolation error (like a leaking module in the battery pack). You can start the car if you disconnect the 12v battery and reconnect. That reset should allow you to start the car 1 time, and then it'll get disabled again.
If you find it is the battery, you disconnect the 12v and it starts, at least you will be able to drive it to a mechanic or the dealer, and pay for a diagnostic that says the battery is bad. You won’t have to have it towed there. Then you can get a replacement under your warranty. Bet you didn’t know about that part of your green bean warranty.
A bit of clarification...and this is assuming the dash indicators lit up brightly and the 12v is fine. The best thing you could do right now is to get the actual codes read. Preferably with a hybrid capable scanner, so it reads TRUE codes. If the dash was lit with warning lights, the AM2 fuse is intact. Loss of the AM2 results in total loss of the dash and MFD. They go BLACK. If the car will not "ready" even after cooling off, then it's not the inverter cooling pump. If the car will go ready after cooling down, then it likely was an inverter over temperature issue. If the 12v battery is disconnected for a minute or two, it will reset the ECU codes. If the car will "ready" following this, then there's a good chance there's an HV isolation issue, with the battery typically being a leading cause. Unfortunately, there's always other causes possible. But...the best option, if possible, right now is to get an accurate code reading...if not possible, then disconnect the battery and see if the car will go.
I pulled the am2 fuse and checked it and it was good. Then pulled the 12v plugs and drove to Advance auto to get it scanned,no codes found. Went for a 25 mile drive and no lights. Scratching my head as to what happen. Any thoughts? Also thanks guys for all the imput,didnt know about the fuse or that disconnecting the 12v would help get going for awhile. I Learned something.
David, Unfortunately, disconnecting the 12v is a two edged sword. It will clear all codes and sometimes get the car going again, but once the codes get cleared, you have no way of finding out what they were until it happens again. Glad to hear you're rolling again. Don't forget this from post #6 If the 12v battery is disconnected for a minute or two, it will reset the ECU codes. If the car will "ready" following this, then there's a good chance there's an HV isolation issue, with the battery typically being a leading cause. Unfortunately, there's always other causes possible.
Gen 1 and Gen 2 had handy unpluggable connectors at the battery positive clamp. Went away in Gen 3. I'm with TMR-JWAP ... happens again, read the trouble codes before erasing them.
Unfortunately, I just had this issue too. I was swapping out the tranny fluid for someone else and they used my car and let the 12v battery die (left light on). I replaced the 12v battery and thought everything was fine. Now a couple days later getting p0aa6 -526 subcode (was also getting 612) c1310 c2124 b1271 Thought there was a losse connection when swaping out 12v. But now having combo meter issues as well. I pulled the disconnect on the HV battery and had a look for any leaks but didn't see anything. Also looked under hood at inverter and connection. The strage thing at 149k I had a very similar issue and replaced the 12v and took it to the Toyota dealership at first they said tranny, hv interver, battery all needed to be replaced. Then a day later they claimed nothing was wrong. This was of course near the Grapevine in California and it happened on the way down the pass. I figured if there was anything wrong with the car that would make it show up. Anyway it's been 2 years and now the car is 230k and first time this problem. I have attached my scan files here: There are 3 times, the scan from a bad 12v, the scan right after the new battery was installed and the person drained it again (yes 2 times in a row) they were confused by the Door option on the light and they own a Prius ! (Although their cabin light was blown.). The last is today after the issue cropped back up again. I am pretty sure all the other codes are just results of the primary. To me I think it's a loose connection somewhere since the Combo is on an off and I just started used the smart key option (turn on the button under the steering wheel). At this point, the next step is to pull the combo meter and replace the problematic cap to remove it as an issue source. I think i have a good working one around somewhere anyway. After that pull all the cables to the inverter (oh the pump and inverter was replaced at 150k as preventative ) measure. Other things that happened that caught my attention. 1. I have a dash cam that was unplugged, I had just plugged it back in when 1 minute later this issue popped up. 2. A day ago after i thought everything was fine and the car was running fine. I put the rear cover storage back in the car. The next time I tried to start I had issues. So the one thing all these things have in common is I could be causing a communication problem in the system and some wiring is just marginal and I am pushing it over the effective noise limit and causing communication issues on the CAN bus.
