Need Help with 07 prius

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Stevern, Feb 16, 2020.

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  1. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    My 07 prius shut down on my wife. Best I could tell, it was 12v battery. I put in new 12v battery, but still won't start. Was running perfect before this. Seems maybe somehow car was immobilized. How does one undo the immobilization? Any other suggestions of what to try is appreciated. Just can't figure it out. Both fuses at 12v look good.
    Is there fuses upfront under hood i should check? New battery is AC Delco.
    I'm grateful

    Stevern
     
    #1 Stevern, Feb 16, 2020
  2. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    When you say it won't start, you mean it won't go to 'Ready', correct? Are you getting any lights on the dash at all? Does the dome light work? Does your car have a Smart Key? If so, have you tried inserting it into the slot on the dash?

    The problem could be a number of things, but having more information will help us narrow it down.
     
    #2 davecook89t, Feb 16, 2020
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  3. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    How did you determine the 12v needing replacing?

    Which codes (DTCs) did you retrieve with the OBD2 code reader?

    You might check the AM2 fuse, though that is just my WAG.
     
    #3 SFO, Feb 16, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2020
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  4. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    The ready does not come on. The only thing on dash Is the car blinking for security. No other lights. I inserted smart key and it beeps, but that's all. Thank you for your help.


     
    #4 Stevern, Feb 16, 2020
  5. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    The ready does not come on. The only thing on dash Is the car blinking for security. No other lights. I inserted smart key and it beeps, but that's all. Thank you for your help.
     
    #5 Stevern, Feb 16, 2020
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  6. davecook89t

    davecook89t Senior Member

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    I'll 2nd @SFO's opinion then. It must be the AM2 fuse in the fuse box under the hood. Its location is mapped on the fuse box cover.

    P.S. I should add that it probably blew because the inverter pump is shorted out. Replace the fuse, but before you start the car, unplug the connector for the inverter pump that is located to the top left of the fuse box. That will prevent the inverter pump from blowing it again, but you will need to replace the inverter pump before driving very far. It would be advisable to use the car for short trips only until the inverter pump is replaced.
     
    #6 davecook89t, Feb 16, 2020
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2020
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  7. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    [​IMG]
     
    #7 SFO, Feb 16, 2020
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  8. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    Is there any way to tell if the pump in fact shorted out? I'm heading home now, so will check that fuse.

     
    #8 Stevern, Feb 17, 2020
  9. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Touch the pump with your finger/stick/pencil/rod. If you have a hard time doing that, take the cap off of the inverter coolant reservoir and look for coolant movement on the liquid surface while the vehicle is 'ready'.
     
    #9 SFO, Feb 17, 2020
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  10. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    The fuse was blown. Pouring out so will get a fuse and try tomorrow. Thank you for all your help.



     
    #10 Stevern, Feb 17, 2020
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  11. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    In the provided photo, there are one 30 amp and one 15 amp fuse located in the top left corner. Those are spares. You should have the same in your fuse box. Unplug the one wire plug that's circled, or you'll just pop the fuse again.
     
    #11 TMR-JWAP, Feb 17, 2020
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  12. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    Is it always the inverter pump that blows this fuse? Or could something else blow it. I will replace fuse in morning and see what happens. What am I reconnecting in that circle? The inverter pump? I appreciate everyone's helping me.
     
    #12 Stevern, Feb 17, 2020
  13. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    BEFORE you do this, do as TMP-JWAP says ...
    You are disconnecting the plug, NOT reconnecting. It is circled in the same picture in post #7.
     
    #13 dolj, Feb 18, 2020
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  14. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    How do I get that circled connector, disconnected? I have tried and tried, and not coming apart. At 73yo, I dont want to break it. Thank you.

     
    #14 Stevern, Feb 19, 2020
  15. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    I cant get that connector apart. At 73yo I don't want to break it. It did pop the fuse.

     
    #15 Stevern, Feb 19, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 19, 2020
  16. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    #16 SFO, Feb 19, 2020
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  17. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    #17 Stevern, Feb 19, 2020
  18. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    Finally got it apart. Thank you
    All


     
    #18 Stevern, Feb 19, 2020
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  19. Stevern

    Stevern Junior Member

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    How far can I drive before overheating with that connection disconnected? What's a good price for replacing inverter pump?
     
    #19 Stevern, Feb 19, 2020
  20. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    If you drive only locally and at low speeds (45 mph and less) you could drive the car all day and may never get the high temp alarm. I've only seen them alarm during highway use. I have personally driven about 30 miles or so with the pump disconnected at that plug. 5 minutes after getting on the highway, it coded.

    A dealer is going to charge around 500-550 (last time I looked) to replace that pump. You can purchase a pump for between 60 and 150 depending on where you buy it. (about 60 on ebay and about 150 at an autoparts store). The pump is located behind the driverside headlight. I normally replace them by removing the headlight and using 2 medium coolant hose plier style clamps to pinch the hoses to eliminate leakage. Job is typically about an hour, including shooting the breeze with the car owner.

    headlight removal and pump replacement have plenty of videos on-line.
     
    #20 TMR-JWAP, Feb 19, 2020
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