I have my drivers side window stuck in the closed position. Pressing down on the switch has no effect. Pressing up on the switch makes the window go up a tad and I hear an “oomph” like the window just closed. The other 3 windows open and close using their dedicated switch or the master switch on the drivers side control panel. The 30 A dedicated power window fuse doesn’t loose broken. what’s the next thing to check or replace? The drivers side switch? The motor? Something else?
i would start by pulling the switch panel and checking the connection, cleaning the contacts, then testing it. if all is okay, remove the inner door panel to see if anything looks jammed
If you hear really absolutely nothing happen when you push down, I would kind of suspect the switch. If you can hear anything at all then, I might be looking more for a mechanical jam. A more sensitive test would be to pull the window fuse and plug something like a Fuse Buddy in its place, then watch to see if there is any increased current draw when you press the switch. There are about 66 pages of troubleshooting info in the "windshield / windowglass" section of the repair manual (more info) about how to troubleshoot the window controls and master switch. You could use that to do a confident diagnosis where you know what the problem is before hunting for parts. My 2010 has developed a couple of issues at different times that responded well to simple contact cleaning.
It appears that the master power window switch is broken. The motor is fine since works in one direction.
There are situations where a motor that works in one direction would not fully meet my expectations of 'fine'.
If the motor works in one direction I am pretty sure it would probably work on the other when power is reversed. I would focus on the switch with these symptoms.
The switch is a likely suspect, I agree. But because the motor isn't living in isolation, but is part of a geared, jointed regulator assembly moving a glass pane in a track, there are various ways I've seen those get kind of unidirectional with age. If the OP comes back with a repeated statement that there is no-sound-no-nuthin'-at-all when pushing the switch down, or that a current draw test shows no blip in current at all, then that would make me even more confident in going with the switch, and that should be pretty easy for the OP.
Just to close the loop on this. replacing the master switch resolved the issue. thanks everyone for the advice!