I have the red triangle. Already balanced the Hv battery and replaced the 12v. The car sat since 2016 due to the modules being bad. I’m removing the old gas and replacing. It started up a few times and died only running in the battery just to move it up in my drive way. Now I’m getting no ready light and only goes into accessory mode. Any ideas on what could be wrong? also has the orange light on the start button.
Welcome to PriusChat!! Generally speaking, when you have warning lights displayed on the dash, you'll have OBD2 codes (DTCs) stored in the ECUs (computers). Best to locate a toyota hybrid compatible OBD2 scanner to retrieve the stored codes, then post them here for additional guidance. Since you've replaced the 12v, which causes the fuel mapping to reset, it would be a good idea to clean up the MAF and throttle body now. You might've run down the HV battery, which device did you use to "balance" the HV battery? FYI : you're moderated until you've posted 5 times.
after scanning im getting codes P3190 and P0A80, the ready light is back after disconnecting the 12v and reconnecting the car will start and then stall. going to put in fresh gas and oil today.
Your ICE is likely not running at all. The hybrid system will crank the engine at 1000 rpm for up to 10 seconds when it tries to start it (sounds like a start and stall). You need to go over basics before you discharge the HV battery. Does the fuel pump work and what is the fuel pressure? Clean throttle body and MAF? What does the ECM show for codes and data when you try to start? (Helps to have techstream to record and save a data movie). When you get the P0A80, what are the HV battery block voltages? Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
make sure the brake lights come on when you press the pedal, then push the power button. if they are on the switch is fine, and the problem lies elsewhere
what exactly is the ICE. and that sounds about right it sounds like the motor revs and then dies. turns out i do have a bad module its sitting at 5v and when i initially charged them it was at 8.2. ill post all of them soon
these are the voltages from after 3 cycles of charge and discharge. day one after charge and a few days later. 1 8,54 - 7.76 2 - 8.41 - 6.36 3 - 8.44 - 6.54 4 - 8.51 - 6.55 5. 8.54 - 7.75 6 - 8.39 - 7.75 7 8.46 - 6.40 8 - 8.60 - 7.75 9. 8.55 - 7.78 10 - 8.38 - 6.52 11 - 8.42 - 6.45 12 - 8.39 - 6.32 13. 8.40 - 6.40 14 - 8.63 - 6.38 15. 8.44 - 6.54 16 - 8.44 - 6.39 17 - 7.12 - 6.40 18 - 8.38 - 7.77 19 8.46 - 7.79 20 - 8.64 - 6.34 21 - 8.31 - 5 22 - 8.53 - 6.62 23 - 8.45 - 7.76 24 - 8.38 - 6.34 25. 8.55 - 7.80 26 - 8.57 - 6.41 27 - 7.75 - 6.40 28 - 7.90 - 6.37
That's... horrible. Module 21 is dead. Period. If you have more time than money, you can try cycling everything that went below 7V (second set of numbers), but I wouldn't expect too much. Generally, IF a module is fully charged and then self discharges that low- it's bad. I might try discharging down to 6V then charge to 7500mAh (delta V disabled) at 1 amp. Then repeat but go down to 5.5V then up 8000mAh. Might recover some modules- or not. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
@Zachary Eaton If the first voltage is day one after discharge and the second voltage is a few days after discharge, every single one of those modules that is less than 7.7 volts is not useable. I wouldn't put them in any battery, even if they looked good after trying to recover them, because there is no guarantee they won't be bad next week. You build a battery with those modules and you're going to have a P0A80 a day or two later, every time. Let the car sit a day or two and a P0A80. A good module should stay above 7.5 volts for MONTHS, not a day or two.
