Hello All I had a couple times when the check engine light came on. I bought a mini-VCI cable, and used techstream V17.00.20 that the seller on Ebay bundled with the adapter. I was able to successfully able to connect to the car, after the surface laptop initially complained about execss power draw, and was able to read the codes. When running the check health option, I did notice that the MFD display went on and off a couple of times. After reading the codes, I tried to clear the codes. There was a brief message about losing connection (don't remember the exact message). Removed the adapter from the car, and powered off the car. Restarted car, and all the VSC and check engine lights are on. I removed the 12 V aux battery, let is sit for 5 min, and tried again. Same issue. All the VSC lights are on. What can I do now? Adapter: MINI VCI J2534 For TOYOTA TIS V17.00.020 Techstream Mini vci FTDI FT232RL Chip
Adding some more information: Step 1: After connection, clicked on heath check. Selected all ECUs Step 2: After noting down the codes, tried to clear the codes As shown in the photo, the fuel gauge shows nearly empty (this is not the case), the ready lights do not come on, and all the VSC lights are on. I can't start the car.
What were the codes shown in techstream before you cleared them? They will tell you what your problem is. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
I see a C2318 in one photo. Were there others? I suppose it's possible you got a bum Mini-VCI. You could learn the codes behind the brake/ABS/VSC lights using the Tc to CG jumper wire, count light blinks method. That would get Techstream and the VCI out of the picture. You wouldn't learn the codes behind the triangle, but you'd have something anyway. I had some experience in the past using a flaky, unplated J1962 connector that would trigger a flurry of communication error codes when plugged in. I eventually realized the codes would go away on their own about three (if I remember right) power cycles later, once I had unplugged the wretched thing and it wasn't making comm errors anymore.
@ChapmanF and @Brian1954 : thanks for your replies. This this is my only car, I am getting nervous @ChapmanF: I did two power cycles now, and the car has been parked with the 12v connected for a while now Do you recommend that I do three more back-to-back or just one more? Also can you point me to some reference to the "Tc to CG jumper wire, count light blinks" method. That is new to me. @Brian1954 : The entire list of code is attached. In general could you damage anything by just reading out, and clearing codes with techstream, faulty adapter or otherwise?
Did you try pressing the power button twice after disconnecting the battery? After losing 12v power and then restoring it, pressing the power button one time (with foot on brake pedal) results in every warning light in the universe turning on, and the gas gauge goes to one blinking dot until it recalibrates itself. Keep foot on brake and press power button one more time and the warnings should clear and car should go READY.
I think I did that, but can't be too sure, but I will try it tomorrow morning. Other (new, but perhaps insiginificant) observations: The door open button is on, and constantly dings as I open the door. Also the MFD display is completely off.
Having never dealt with this specific problem, I would probably start with disconnecting the 12v battery and checking every fuse in the fuse box at the bottom left of the dashboard, just in case there was something funky with the OBD device. Then reconnect the 12v battery. I definitely would not reconnect that techstream cable. Be slow and careful to ensure each fuse is good and gets replaced in the correct position. No need to make things even more confusing.
How old is your 12V battery? Do you have a meter that you can use to check the 12V battery? If so, with the car off what is the voltage of the battery? Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
This should get you started: site:priuschat.com tc cg blink - Google Search If a bum VCI were to blow any fuse, I would expect it to be the 7.5 amp OBD fuse (the one that supplies power at pin 16 of the diagnostic port). If I were going to check any fuse at all it would be that one. It would be tough for anything a bad VCI does to blow any other fuse. More likely would be just creating some communication interference on a data bus. ^^^^ words to live by, if you're going to do any testing of fuses (beyond the one OBD fuse). We had a thread once where somebody took all the fuses out, tested them, and then put all of them back in the right slots—according to a mirror-image phone selfie cam pic. That one took a while to figure out.