Oil change door panel replacement

That isn't the oil change access door; it's 51442-12270 "radiator support splash shield" or "engine under cover no. 2" that sits just behind the engine undertray. As far as I can tell, to replace the oil change door you have to buy the whole engine undertray 51410-12105.
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In the ad he states no panels are included. He is just selling what I would call a threaded insert kit with installation tool.



What I did when the access door ripped off was buy a cheap but complete aftermarket undercover. However it did not fit well and lacked the insulation panels attached to the oem undercover. So I cut off the new oil access door and attached it to the oem cover with a piano hinge. Then I used screw in plastic retainers instead of the pushpins. His metal inserts and screws might be better.

 

Years ago, I cut the panel off and installed an aluminum piano hinge with pop rivets and back up washers. 20 oil changes later, it's still there and still works.

 

Mine's all off and long gone I mean long gone maybe that's why I don't get 58 mi to the gallon oh boy

 

Why over-complicate a simple problem?

I cut loose the panel (through the "hinge"), then attached two sheet-metal strips to the front side of the door, using two screws per strip. Those strips extend forward beyond the original "hinge" line. One screw at the front end of each strip holds up the strips, thus also the front of the oil-change flap, in its original position. Removing only the two front screws (and the OE pushpins elsewhere on the flap perimeter) allows the flap come off for filter changes.

Easy! I'm sure there are more elegant solutions, but this works. The main drawback I see is that overenthusiastic tightening of the screws would easily strip them out of the plastic. So far, I haven't allowed that to happen.

 

I used that “access panel” once, the first oil change I did, and decided from then on to remove the entire engine bay underpanel at each oil change. I’ve subsequently removed/installed the full panel at least 24 times (twice yearly times 12 years); it’s still like new.

I acquired a set of replacement plastic fasteners (relatively cheaply, through Amayama) when I noticed a few had missing or bent teeth; swap them when needed.

there’s some preservation tips in oil change link in my signature (on a phone turn it to landscape to see signature). Also the pdf with part nos linked there.

my 2 cents: replace the full engine under panel, and don’t use that “access panel”.

the Repair Manual section on oil change (attached in aforementioned link) says to remove the full panel, fwiw.

 

You don’t use the push pin to hold the flap 180 degrees out of the way? I’m supposed to do our v’s 11th oil change and always do it that way. (Seems like it’s intact per your description)…

 

By the time you get that flap over to that hole that’d be the only thing holding it lol.

 

Just sharing, maybe this time will be the time it breaks…. (Doesn’t look like it but for sure I’ll share when/if it does). I’ve done it for the last 8 times…

 

With a piano hinge and offset hinge screws it will fold back almost 180. However I did not try to make a pushpin hold it open.



The next time I get under there (while on a lift) I am going to add the ebay rivet nut inserts with a couple tweeks. I will superglue some wingnuts to the bolt heads to make them removable without a wrench.

Then I will glue a pair of magnets to the flap and the corresponding undercover location to hold the flap fully open.

The best superglue ever is probably the two part HY4070 with included mixing nozzles. Wear gloves and safety glasses.

 

@rjparker There’s a designated hole that fits one of the 3 push pins to hold it 180 degrees open. (Of course I avoid creasing it as much as possible). If you note from @Mendel Leisk post we’re both aware of it from official Toyota oil change instructions…

 

Access door? There isn't one on mine. It's been almost six years for me, and I haven't have a problem.
I don't know how long it was missing for the original owner..

 

Taking the whole panel off affords a better view of inner CV joints on drive shafts, and various seams and bolt-ons that can leak. Plus for me for oil catch can access.

it’s the repair manual recommendation, takes 5 minutes coming off or going back on, once you’ve done it a few times.

I suppose if “professional” mechanics have been bending back that flap multiple times it’s halfway to coming off anyways, so there’s that.

Our previous Honda had a sim albeit much larger flap, but the plastic was much thicker/softer, and thinned out at the hinge, so that it was actually effective, about as durable as the plastic hinges used on power tool cases.