Looking for advice on my vehicle fixing plans.

Had you been crazy enough to give those thieves $2K it wouldn't of fixed the problem and they'd just shrug their shoulders and ask themselves what else can we replace that's expensive that might fix it.

As @ChapmanF often explains C1310 is just brake ECU saying "hey, the hybrid battery ECU says it has a problem..."

Is it possible your car sat for a while while you waited for a replacement 12v? That can sometimes create problems.

Please use Dr. Prius app so we can see some of the hybrid battery's vital signs so we can help you figure out what the problem is?

 

What are you using to read the trouble codes? Did the dealership give you the trouble codes that they found?

As PriusCamper already stated, the car has other trouble codes that your scantool can not read. The Dr. Prius app can be used to read HV battery trouble codes OR a better scantool can be used. There is a thread at the top of the Gen 2 forum, which reviews different OBD2 scantools. https://priuschat.com/index.php?threads/232741/

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Yeah, you don't need to pay Dr. Prius for the vital signs... And hopefully this is the buyer's guide you're referring to: Hybrid battery diagnostic and repair tool for Toyota and Lexus

 

That number known as voltage difference indicates you have a weak module... When the amp number above it goes really high the voltage difference number will too, which triggers the red triangle.

If this is the first bad module in the pack people have gotten as much as a year out of it by buying a replacement module for $35 from Professor Joe at https://2ndlifebattery.com/contact-us/

If you want to recondition the pack on top of this rebuilding work, as well as balancing the pack, we can walk you thru all that so you can get as much life out of the pack as possible.

However if you have enough cash and want to upgrade to lithium click link in my signature below to learn more or you can buy new OEM or a rebuilt pack from Professor Joe with 3 year warranty, though his 1 year warranty packs are of the same quality.

And if you're gonna replace rather than repair you can just keep clearing those error codes and drive the pack into the ground as long as it doesn't get so hot it pops its tops...

 

You need to read the trouble codes in the Dr. Prius app. Run the "Full Battery Test" to retrieve the codes.

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So Dr Prius is reporting a P3102 from the hybrid control ecu. Assuming that's accurate, then there is also an INF or detail subcode present that gives more info about the fault. You need a more capable scantool to view INF codes or get codes and data from systems such as "transmission control" (parking pawl mechanism).

The link (above post #4) to the scantool review thread on PriusChat shows several capable scantools (such as Autel AP200).

All the P3102 codes show that wiring-connectors, transmission control ecu, hybrid control ecu, or power source control ecu can all be possible problems. There's no direct mention of the parking actuator causing this code.

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C1310 is the brake ECU saying "hey, the hybrid vehicle control ECU says it has a problem...". Which could, in turn, be the HV control ECU saying "hey, the hybrid battery ECU said something or other", or it could be any of dozens of other things the HV control ECU thinks about, not necessarily battery-related at all.

 

Yes, I understand that it's a bit confusing. There's lots of options that can do different things. You have to ask the question - "what do I NEED a scantool to be able to do"? You also have to understand what all that means.

In post #37 of the scantool review thread, I summarized everything. For "general" diagnostics, I prefer being able to do a system scan- that checks what systems on the car can respond and if any of those have codes. Also I want a scantool that can access codes and data on ALL systems.

Data is a list of information that an ecu receives (inputs from things like sensors) as well as some commands (outputs to actuators). Diagnostic Trouble Codes are set when certain inputs or outputs fall outside of preprogrammed limits.

Of the options listed, # 7) through 10) can all do that.

Next is being able to retrieve Freeze Frame data and INF codes. FF is a "snapshot" of data that a particular ecu records at the time it sets a code. INF or detail sub codes (if present) can help narrow down the specific problem area. Three tools have FF data, but only two have INF codes.

Bidirectional controls are handy for testing if a system CAN work as should. (example- telling the ECM to turn the radiator fans ON then seeing if both actually move air.) Only two tools can do that.

Then there's Service Functions: special commands for things like bleeding the ABS system, writing ID numbers of Tire Pressure transmitters to the car's ecu, etc.

The Autel has the best "bang for the buck" - FF, INF, some service functions (but no bidirectional controls).

The ThinkCar does most everything (but I personally don't like subscriptions).

The XTool can almost match ThinkCar's functionality - it costs more $$ up front vs. no subscription. (but no doesn't do INF codes).

Mucar is the most basic (and least $$) of the four "capable" scantools. No FF, INF, or bidirectional functions. Service functions are by subscription - so you pay for each one (for 12 months) only if you need it.

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Regarding your pcon issue. Do you have any corrosion/rust under the dash? I had some funky stuff going on, testing miles of harness and connectors. Only to finally notice the ia3 connections located under the dash, left of the combo meter. Was corroded. I had various code including the c1310

 

So the parking motor consists of 3 stationary electromagnet coils. The ecu turns them on & off in sequence to act on the rotor (which has permanent magnets in it) to make the rotor spin - and through some gears it applies the parking pawl.

Each of the 3 coils (or phase) has a label -U, V, & W. 12V is supplied to the coils and the ecu expects to see that 12V on the control (negative) side of each coil when they are not turned on.

If the ecu sees less than the 12V as expected (under 6V) for phase U, it sets that code.

If you test resistance across any two phase control wires (careful - don't damage or spread any terminals in the connector) : U-V, V-W, or U-W, all should read about the same. If not then test at the motor itself.



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