Hi. I just returned from testing a 2015 (w/ 58k miles on it & clean history) that had some weird problems. I have a 2010 since new so I'm not totally new to these but this combination of errors seemed very weird to me. Trip computer had been zero'd out before I started the car for the drive. Test drove it 12.5 miles (which the trip computer reported correctly) but I noticed immediately that the continuous MPG and average speed values were amiss. MPG never got up past 13.2 and the average speed reported after the drive was 4 MPH (a drive which included a 70+ stint on highway). I also sensed that the engine wasn't shutting off at all during the drive. It's 117 here today (Phoenix) so I shut the AC off for the second half of the drive but the engine ran the entire way back, and for 10 minutes more with the car in Park once I got to the lot. Threw my code reader on it and found 2 historic codes: P0102 and P0113. I looked under the hood for anything obviously disconnected or broken but couldn't see anything. I explained to the dealer (just an indy lot, not a Toyota dealer) that something is wrong, gave them the codes, and told them I'd likely buy it if they can get it sorted. Anyone have feedback on this combination of errors? If it was just the P codes, I wouldn't be hugely concerned but the addition of the TC weirdness doesn't seem great. Thanks!
Mileage likely turned back, check carfax. Mileage zeroed out means battery was probably disconnected to reset all codes before you started test drive. The mileage seems awfully low for a car on an indy lot (usually this happens when it's traded in for a new car, not something on an indy lot) The engine not shutting off most likely due to heat. If you drive it again, when the car has sat in shade for a bit (cold start), it should hopefully shut off. If it doesn't, then there probably more issues with the car.
Were the P0102 and P0113 just historical codes, not current? No check-engine light? If so, probably only means the car was turned on once with the connector to the MAF and intake-air-temp sensors (they're combined, it's just one plug) unplugged, and somebody caught the mistake and now it's plugged back in, so there's no current code. The permanent codes can stick around for a while. It was about a year when it happened to me, but lockdowns were part of that and not driving a lot. Odd about the trip computer. Any other symptoms of an incorrect vehicle speed signal? Do, like, some of the audio controls on the MFD get grayed out the way they should when you drive above 3 MPH or so?
Is the hybrid battery being charged? That's LOW mileage. And the engine running all the time trying to charge up the hybrid battery. Could be the hybrid battery is going/gone? You certainly have other issues with the car. You should put Techstream on it, or the D8.
Yes, both codes were historical only. No check engine or any other warning lights. The drive battery indicated low when starting out but quickly filled up. No other signs incorrect speed. It drove well/normal (compared to my 2010 and others I've driven), I was just alarmed that the values being reported were wrong and that the engine ran non-stop. I've never been in a Prius where the engine didn't shut off sooner or later during city driving.
Drive battery was low starting out but quickly indicated that it was full. Would a drive battery go bad in just 8-ish years? My 2010 (with 226k on it) is diminished in capacity but still operating ok. I'd be surprised for a 2015 to be bad. Given the low miles on the car, obviously it wasn't used very much (my assumption is it was someone's vacation house car which sat unused for long periods). If they're left unused and fully depleted for long periods, I suppose that could contribute to a shorter life. Most rechargeables like being used rather than just sitting.
Sitting is not good for the battery. Driving it "may" rejuvinate it. What about the 12V battery???? A low or bad 12v battery will cause a lot of problems. Likely it's the original 12v battery, 8-9 years old and needs replacing. You could put a 4amp or less charger on it for 3 or 4 hours and see if it brings it back to life. At least for testing... If the inverter/converter is putting full amperage into trying to charge a bad battery, you'll likely get low readings.
I decided to pass on the car when the dealer called yesterday and said they can't find anything wrong with it. When I asked about the values being reported incorrectly by the TC, he said I "probably just needed to drive it more". There's enough red flags around the car (and now the dealer) that I'll just keep looking. Thanks for the feedback guys!
Probably a good idea. I may be something simple... buttt.... Or cut the price by 50%. Then change the 12volt battery and if the problem still exists, take it to a dealer, or hybrid shop, and have them go over it...
