I would like to learn about your install experience., maybe tips and trick if you have some to share. I more concerned about dealing with coolant lines and exhaust heat recirculation system coolant refill. p.s. This is about genuine Toyota Oem Cat assy part # 17410-37300 install, please no direct fit aftermarket xyz brands talk.
Here is the complete removal and install manual for the Gen 3 exhaust including the catalytic converter.
Thanks GR, I think or at least i hope that engine coolant drain can be avoided by using clamps on coolant lines or something similar (I flushed engine coolant 4 months ago, don't feel like i want to repeat all over again) Also from another attached doc see below
I use Lisle hose clamp iers have like 6 pairs I cannot find them lately. That do make plastic versions though. Temu has .. this keeps all the water above in place so when you slide the first hose in place you can undo its clamp a little let some water run into the heat recovery jacket put the other clamp on as the water starts to drip almost on you and you essentially won't have to do any bleeding or any funny business. Most of these little pumps on the Toyota at least the ones I've seen and had out are pretty much like self-priming they look like a little spa circulation pump running dry should not hurt them at all actually they're mag drive a lot of them so running for a minute or two without water in them should not cause them any strife.
I think running electric water pump dry will kill them prematurely (not sure for how long, i don't wanna be guinea pig..lol) unlike mechanical water pump. Inside there're some fragile rotor/ stator plastic parts plus electronics such as power transistors, diodes etc. Also electric water pump uses engine coolant for heat dissipation. If there air bubble inside exhaust heat recirculation system or no adequate coolant flow for any reason, the pump will die shortly after for the reasons mentioned above.
I don't know I've cracked a few of these pumps open especially the inverter pump and one of the heat recovery pumps and it looks like they're electronics package and the green board is housed nowhere near where it will be cooled by the water flowing through the impeller end and the impeller is a mag drive type of thing there's no shaft running from the motor through the plastic pump housing to the impeller It's done like a washing machine and I think those pumps can run dry for a few minutes without really any consequence but I'm not positive of that but it doesn't seem like coolant running through the pump head is going to cool much of the setup down but I guess it's possible. I think that's the selling point of some of these mag drive pumps I use them in ponds you know like out in people's yards.
And if you just use hose clamps the clamp off the water supply or hose clamp pliers you can keep all the water in the system right up to the hose clamp pliers so when you slide in the new converter and you slip on the pipes if you undo one hose clamp on one side let the water run through the bulbous part of the converter or the heat jacket start running out the other side just to drop or two undo your other hose block off plier slide the hose on the other side you should have like no air in that system practically maybe a tiny bubble and I mean small.
Thanks for all great tips Tombukt2! There are thermal adhesive tape strips which connects pcb s emiconductor power components to water pump housing for a heat transfer. Also Gen3 water pump housing all made from aluminum. p.s. I've seen/heard , some reports where no warm air, engine overheats and blown head gaskets right after muffler shop repairs...