Brake Bark and whirring sound.

When this actually fails, it'll do more than bark. It'll light up your dash and tell you something is wrong and need attention. Until then, you should just start saving up for the upcoming big expense.

 

Or I might start with this at my house here with my four cars is take the relays out and manually bleed the brakes just to see if anything comes out A lot of times I take the front relays out and crack the left or the right wheel zerk fitting and lay there and watch it there should be a steady drip if you hit any air you'll see an air bubble start to blow up on the end of the zerk fitting keep watching that bubble will pop and the drips will return to the same rate they were a second ago dink dink dink dink drops of fluid. No more air bubbles on that side you closed dessert go to the left side do the same thing observe or do not observe the same actions when satisfied that you have steady rate of drip close the zerk . Apply the relays have someone sit in the car start over on the right side person pumps up the brakes holds the pedal down You crack the left zerk not too much and watch the stream squirt as the stream starts to produce less of a squirt close the zerk . Have the person remove their foot or pump the brakes then tell them to hold down do it again You don't see any or hear any air and squirting just straight stream coming out close that one go do the left side now take the car for a drive and see what you got. Until you have the exclamation point in the circle Amber the ABS Amber and the VSC light in Amber all on You're in pretty good shape when you have all those lights on be very aware that they're on and if you're driving the car and all of a sudden you get a constant beep sound don't panic just realize that you're going to need an extra 50 ft or so to stop the car It will feel like you're driving an old Dodge truck without a brake booster in four-wheel drum brakes you'll have to be reasonably aged to remember this I am driving a 08 right now that does this and I can drive it anywhere without any consequences because I know the consequences of these lights soon as I find a booster I'll fix it or an accumulator setup.

 

The whirring noise is the pump, and the pump is supposed to need to run occasionally. (If it didn't, they wouldn't have put one there.) Opening the driver's door when the car's been off is a perfectly normal time for the pump to run. Also every few times you use the brakes. What starts to get sketchy is when it runs much more often than that.

The brake bark led to a firmware update for 2010s and some 2011s, but if you've got a 2012 you should already have the updated firmware. So if you still have barks, my thinking is you've got some gas bubbles in the system.

If the system has ever been opened and worked on and not properly bled afterward, the bubbles can be air that got in that way. If it has never been opened, the bubbles may be nitrogen that snuck out of the bellows in the accumulator. Either way, bubbles are bubbles, and they get squoze when you apply the brakes, and if you release a little bit they expand and spurt some fluid past the valves in the actuator and honk them like saxophone reeds.

If you have a scan tool that can kick off the brake system's bleed routines, I would try going through the longer routine, the one for when the actuator has been replaced. That should chase out whatever bubbles might be there, for now. If the accumulator has a slow nitrogen leak, there may be bubbles again some time later, but you'll have quiet brakes for a while.

Make sure you've got some fresh brake fluid to add to the system in place of what comes out while you bleed. Make sure the battery is well charged before you start, accessories turned off, a charger plugged in for extra support if you've got one; the bleed procedure takes a while (longer your first time) and it's frustrating if the battery conks out midway through. Take the wipers and cowl out before starting, so you're not spending time on that when it says "now for the stroke simulator bleed screw".

There may be an even better reason for getting the bubbles out besides just quieting the bark. In normal operation, the system can brake just fine even with bubbles present (you just hear maybe some extra whoosh sounds and maybe barks), but if anything ever flips it into fail-safe mode, that's different. The fail-safe mode is supposed to feel like the pedal is just very hard to press but you stand on the sucker and the car still stops. But if you go into fail-safe mode with big enough bubbles present, you get the version where the pedal goes right to the floor and the car keeps going. Nobody likes that version.