Hello experts! So I got that water pump and thermostat replaced so happy there. I drove it back 45 miles to Hybridpit in Buena Park CA and all went well. So fast forward to 1 week later, took the car on a short ride to the store early morning and suddenly... - lost power - light on the dash was the "red steering wheel and exclamation point" - was able to slow-crawl to a parking spot - adding that there are no dtc codes I pulled over and called for a tow truck. In the wait, I disconnected and reconnected the 12v and the car fired back up and was able to drive it back home. I tested the 12v and it tests 12.2 on standby and 11.5 (ICE not running) w AC and headlights on. And adding that its a 4yr factory battery, the car is not driven as much and the weather is getting colder. Like to get your thoughts if you also think its best to just get a new 12v battery. I may go get it at costco; they seem to be best priced. The dealer sold me this one for $220 in 2020 and they want $280 for a new one today minus -25% prorate. Costco is $177 for an AGM. Thank you once more.
The reason I was asking is because if you have warning lights on the dash, it means that there are trouble codes that need to be read. But you stated that there were no codes. The app you used is a fairly good app to read codes.
The OBD and app is 4+ years old and it’s paid for itself a few times over. Thank you for the input. My PIP has become the spare car and it probably prefers to be used more. great car/ had never changed the brakes/ $70 oil changes at 5k/ looks great/ high tech at its time/ HOV sticker but exp now/ / I’d like to keep it forever but maybe time for someone else to take it.
So many variables there. Measure voltage with the car off, first thing in the morning, with a multimeter. Either at the under-hood jump-point, or directly at the battery posts, should make much difference. If it does make a difference, you've got a loose connection somewhere.
A simple and free load test is the way to evaluate the battery. Voltage after sitting is not definitive since an excessive parasitic draw causes the same thing.
Thank you for the time guys. Plan to take the 12v to autozone this week for that free test just to make sure. Fast forward to yesterday. I have the Dr Prius app too and ran a Hybrid battery test to see the current “condition” of the big battery (a year ago I think it’s said good at 80%) This time it threw on the Check engine light and Check Hybrid system. DTC is POD58. Will research it more this week as I see a few definitions for it online. (Something about O2 sensor in bank 2 or low voltage somewhere) Appreciate any intel if you guys are able to grace me again.
If running the test caused the code, I would clear it and wait for a check engine. It is likely not valid. The Dr Prius capacity test is a guess anyway you look at it.
Dr Prius Hybrid Battery tests work way differently in our plugin prii than the they do in non plugin prii. It would have been very easy to have set a code in the Plugin trying to follow the testing procedures that were developed for non plugin prii. I've gotten through both tests at least once each, BUT, it's not easy, even after learning what the tests are looking for and how to get the tests to complete as least once ( without throwing a code or two ) like you experienced.
Update fellas: I ended up replacing the ECU and cleared all the codes and car is running very well again. I maybe selling it now that its back to its original self.
I replaced mine after 5 years. It didn't seem to hold a charge anymore. Gen 1 ? I always considered my 2012 Prius Plug in a Gen 3.
