2005 Prius - after ECU replacement, car won't turn off... electrical problems

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Rebecca V, Mar 8, 2025.

  1. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    Huge thank you in advance for trying to help keep my beloved 2005 prius alive.

    My saga begins when on a cold day in Feb (but not that cold) my car wouldn't start. I thought somehow the battery died, and when I came back to try and jump it a couple days later it just turned on, no issue. Weird, but everything seemed fine for another couple weeks, including a visit to a shop to get an oil change and replace a belt - the shop never mentioned any intermittent starting issues so I assume the car behaved fine during that time.

    A day or two later, I got the large red caution triangle light on dash. My Prius is dead and stuck at a friend's house. I could turn the car on and start the engine but not put it in drive. I checked the codes and the car told me that it could not communicate with the car computer. I took a gamble on the integrity of the wiring and decided to replace the ECU with one that I bought on FlagshipOne. I disassembled my dashboard to reach the ECU, switched it out, and reassembled everything. In the process of course, I left all my doors open and lights on and drained my 12 V battery.

    Using a friend's external battery jumper thingy, I was able to turn the car on. I checked the OBD reader again and my computer code was cleared. I put the car in drive and moved forward 6 inches, very excited that it was working. Alas, I turned the car off again and couldn't restart it with that same external battery. There were again some weird dash lights that didn't seem consistent with anything I was doing, but I thought it was because my battery was very dead and wasn't getting consistent current from the external jumper battery (which itself would turn on and off). It was getting late, so I decided to go home and take my 12 V battery home with me and trickle charge it.

    When putting the 12 V battery back in, as soon as I connected the positive terminal, the car turned on, meaning all the dash lights not the engine. From this point on, I was not able to get the car to do anything - pushing the power button does nothing, taking the parking brake off doesn't make that "brake" light go off, the only dash light that will respond to anything is turning the headlights on and off. Certainly can't put it in drive, and unfortunately I didn't check the codes again that night. I unplugged the 12 V battery to turn the car off, and that is where I have left the car, still sitting on my friend's street.

    Has anyone seen something like this before? Any advice would be so appreciated!
     
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Anytime you disconnect the 12 V battery or it goes flat, you will lose any codes most ECUs set. The exception to that is some brake codes which are stored in non-volatile RAM so they survive a power out.

    It sounds like you could have more than one issue going on and it also sounds like the code reader cannot read all of the Prius computers.

    This thread reviews many phone-type scanner apps. Read the first page then skip to post #37 to read the cliff note version.

    One code (that does reset on a power out) is P0AA6 which seems to match the symptoms you mention.

    The key "feature" of P0AA6 is you need to reset the 12 V power every time it throws the P0AA6 so you can start the car and drive it. This buys you some time and might get you out of a sticky situation but should not be relied upon in the long term. You need to repair the car to eliminate the code.

    P0AA6 has 5 sub-codes (526, 611, 612, 613, and 614 – again a good scanner will display those) which will help narrow down which of the 4 sub-systems has the electrical voltage leak to ground which pops the P0AA6. You may find only 526 is set. That means you need to power cycle the car one more time. It does not matter if the car starts (i. e. goes READY) or not, you just need to power cycle the car. If you disconnect the power to the car before power cycling the car for a second time, it will clear the code and subcodes and you will have to start again.

    There is a Gen 1 non-scan tool procedure (for which you can search PriusChat) that will also narrow down the subsystem if you do not have an adequate scan tool.

    I hope that helps.
     
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  3. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    There are many (12 to 16) different ECU's in your Prius. Which ECU did you replace?

    What scanner are you using to read the trouble codes. Please be specific with manufacturer and model number.
     
  4. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    Hi all and thanks for your attention - I replaced the ECM, the one that controls fuel injection etc. I used a Zurich ZR4 obd2 reader, which told me "U0100: lost communication with ECM/PCM 'A' ". I very well might need to use a different scanner, thank you for the advice. As-is, I am unable to power cycle the vehicle except by connecting/disconnecting the positive terminal of the battery.
     
  5. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Have you checked fuses for possible loss of power to the ECM? I'm thinking the EFI fuse, maybe? Have you had your catalytic converter stolen recently?
     
  6. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    I have not checked fuses - thank you I will look into that! My catalytic converter was stolen 3 years ago (sigh).
     
  7. MAX2

    MAX2 Senior Member

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    If you have replaced the ECM, you can assume that one of the many connectors on or near the ECU is not snapped in place. It is very difficult to remove the ECU without disconnecting a bunch of connectors.
     
  8. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    A U0100 code does not mean that the ECM is bad and needs to be replaced. It means that one of the other ECU's in the car can not communicate with the ECM. I do not think that the ECM was the problem.

    Your present scanner maybe is not reading all the trouble codes that your car has. If you want to purchase another scanner, look at the thread linked in post #2. The Autel AP200 is a very good choice. It is $60 +tax on Amazon.
     
  9. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    To update the thread: I checked all my fuses yesterday and they seem fine. Now going to get the fancier scanner - thanks everyone!
     
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  10. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    Another update, the new OBD scanner works a lot better. Unfortunately, a lot of codes, but what did I expect?

    U0121 - lost communication with anti-lock brake system control module
    U0073 - Control module communication bus off
    U0123 - Lost communication with the yaw rate sensor module
    U0124 - Lost communication with lateral acceleration sensor module
    U0126 - Lost communication with steering angle sensor module

    Does anyone know if all of these codes could come from, say, the same connector not being plugged in all the way?

    The symptoms are quite bizarre - I can still only turn the car off by unplugging the positive terminal of my battery.

    Any thoughts would be appreciated!
     
  11. MAX2

    MAX2 Senior Member

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    Error codes with the letter U indicate a problem with interblock communication with different vehicle systems. The CAN bus is common and is used to exchange data.
    Considering the set of errors you have provided, it is necessary to find the culprit that prevents correct data exchange.

    To find and eliminate the cause, you need basic knowledge of an auto electrician and measuring tools (multimeter).


    See this post.

    Prius quite running and won't start with codes U0073, U0123, U0124, U0126, U0293, POA72 | PriusChat
     
  12. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    If you think it might be worth trying, since the Gen 2 is " turning on when the 12 volt is connected and only turning off when the 12 volt is disconnected" ? Is that correct?
    Try putting the original ECU back in .... put don't reassemble the dash after you reinstall the original ECU.

    It may be a futile attempt, but it also might at very least get you and your Prius back home, even with the dash still not buttoned back up.

    Also, trickle charge the 12 volt again, if you haven't already done that at least a few times already, and if you can take the 12 volt to a parts store and have it checked.

    I still don't fully understand why your Prius would turn itself on just be you connecting the 12 volt battery. Is that really what's happening?
     
  13. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    Thank you both.

    MAX2 - thank you for linking the wiring diagram, I have a multimeter and I'll take a look at that with my friend who has a lot more experience than I do.

    vvillovv - yes, differently from the car in the post that MAX2 linked, I can turn my car on (though not the engine anymore) by plugging in the 12 V battery, but then nothing on the dash will respond except the headlights. To turn the car off, I have to disconnect the 12 V. I can try trickle charging the 12 V and putting the original ECU back in, thank you.
     
  14. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Senior Member

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    You have a problem with the combination meter in your car. The car will not turn off correctly when the combination meter is not working properly. Take a look at this long thread to fix the combination meter, https://priuschat.com/index.php?posts/2293037
     
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  15. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    Thanks for linking the thread - I see one comment referring to the inability to turn the car off when the CM is bad (or maybe I just need to hold down the power button), but just to confirm, my dash never went dark. Quite the opposite: all the dash lights go on when I plug in the battery. I'll look into this fix if you still think it's the CM!
     
  16. MAX2

    MAX2 Senior Member

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    You can take a few photos of the dashboard with a description of what is happening and post them in this thread.
     
  17. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    Please forgive this horrible photo - this was the last photo I took of the dash when I connected the battery. So all the green lights come on even though you can't see them in the photo, along with the orange lights, but no red triangle. The parking brake light is on, but if I take the parking brake off, the light doesn't go off. Headlight indicator does come off and on though.
     

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  18. ColoradoCrow

    ColoradoCrow Senior Member

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    second the combination meter issue I had 2 Prii do this when it was cold in the morning. same symptoms as you. I sent it out to Texas hybrid batteries and they fixed it. I reinstalled and both cars have been great for 7 years. If yours is a 2005 and it has never had the combination meter repaired....I would have it done..
     
  19. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    ... also, as you are in there, get the necessary additional parts to upgrade the CM and light cluster to the 2006+ modified set that Texas Hybrid Batteries offers. This fixes the ODO stuck at 299,999 miles problem.
     
  20. Rebecca V

    Rebecca V New Member

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    Hi Prius Friends, another update:

    To order a new combination meter, I wanted to get the exact milage on my car, so yesterday afternoon I made the trek to my car which to this point has been stuck at my friend's house. It has been warmer the last few days which could have played a role -- this time when I connected my battery, I got the car out of accessory mode and was able to actually put it in drive! So the exciting news is that I was able to take it home and park it in front of my house.

    The confusing news is that I received an email back from Texas Hybrid Batteries regarding ordering a new combination meter from them. Matt said, "nothing you've described sounds like a combo meter issue in any way." I believe he is saying this because in his experience, issues with the combination meter always come with a dash that has gone completely dark. "When we refer to the display not working it's not just a part of it, it's the whole thing. The car will be on and drivable but the whole dash will be black. No speedometer, gas gauge, odometer, or shift indicator."

    If my issue is not the combination meter, it is likely a "damaged wire, weak relay, corroded connector, etc" that will be hard to find, so I just wanted to ask the folks here who were confident about the combination meter: In the cars whose combination meters you have fixed, were there any like mine where the dash lights still come on, they are just unresponsive? Or are the only shared symptoms the temperature dependence and the power button no longer turning the car off?


    Thank you!
     
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