Inverter loop coolant change question

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by pasadena_commut, Mar 17, 2025.

  1. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    I changed the inverter coolant on our 2007 yesterday. It had not been changed since 2019 (when we purchased the car) and the maintenance records prior to that didn't explicitly say when it had been done prior to that.

    The method was:
    1. Drain.
    2. Drain plug reinstalled.
    3. Put a large funnel into the reservoir and a clear tube run from the slightly open bleed valve into the funnel. Coolant poured into the funnel until the reservoir was at the full line and the level in the tube was at the same height. Just before it reached that there were very few bubbles coming through the bleed valve.
    4. Helper press the start button twice to turn on the pump. This immediately lowered the level in the reservoir by several inches. I don't recall what happened in the tube other than there were no bubbles coming through.
    5. Coolant was slowly added until the reservoir was once again at full. A few bubbles came through the tube getting to that point, but it didn't look like anywhere near the volume of the reservoir drop when the pump turned on.
    6. Turned the pump off.
    7. Tightened the bleed valve.
    8. Put a finger over the open end of the tube, pulled it off the valve, and dumped it into the reservoir - where it only raised the level by a millimeter or so.

    How does (4,5) work? If there was air in the system it should have gone out the bleed valve, but it didn't, or at least didn't seem to. If there wasn't air in the system, then where did that couple of inches of reservoir coolant go? Could there have been lots of tiny tiny bubbles, or air dissolve in the coolant, which weren't visible when passing through the tube?

    One other observation - the pH of the old and new coolant were the same when measured with some pH paper, as far as I could tell from the color. Super long life indeed.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I don't know where any of that came from usually when I feel the inverter because it has its own electric pump I don't have to do anything I just turn on the pump of course it struggles for a second or two then you hear the air getting pumped out is the pump starts to suck on the other end then it gurgles and a lot of the coolant disappears out of the reservoir and I'm standing there with a beaker pouring more into it's full and then capping it I guess the electric pump bleeds itself it just puts the air in the reservoir and then it's pulling coolant because the air vanished it got pushed into the reservoir now the other end of the tube suction side is pulling well just red coolant but having this type of setup or filling from the bottom with the radiator I guess is reasonable as it seems to take a whole day to fill the radiator quite funny.
     
  3. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    The coolant reservoir tank on the inverter has two ports. So when you turned on the pump, it sucked coolant in one, & pushed some air out of the other.

    If you opened the bleeder screw about a turn or more, the pump should push a steady stream of coolant (and any remaining trapped air) out of the hose you put on.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  4. pasadena_commut

    pasadena_commut Senior Member

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    That makes sense. I wasn't looking for bubbles in that container, and even if there had been some, they likely wouldn't have been seen as it is a nearly opaque plastic.

    Thanks.

    Another thing. Since the last time I replaced the inverter pump (with an OEM one from the dealer) the motion in the reservoir has been almost invisible. The lighting needs to be nearly perfect to see it. With the first pump in the car, and later the Dornan which was in for a while, there was much more movement. Makes me wonder if the current pump is either smoother than the others or if it moves less fluid. Clearly it moves enough though, since the inverter never overheats (no codes), and the couple of times I checked the temperatures with Techstream they were reasonable.
     
  5. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    If it doesn't dwell long enough in that radiator portion that is allotted for the inverter the fluid won't cool correctly since there's no thermostat the pump is barely flowing water so it stays in the cooling part of the radiator for the maximum amount of time to transfer the heat to the air flying to the radiator that moves too fast it won't cool off well enough this happens a lot in old automobiles when you take the thermostat out and you just have that water flying through the waterway until you add a restrictor plate with a hole in it like 3/4 of an inch to slow the water down and let it dwell in the radiator it won't cool at least cool properly.
     
  6. MAX2

    MAX2 Senior Member

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    An interesting theory, but it is wrong.

    If the liquid does not move well, then overheating in some critical part is guaranteed.

    It is more important to check the condition of the radiator.

    If it is clogged with fluff and dirt on the outside, and there are dirt residues from rubber hoses on the inside, then the radiator will not cope with cooling.
     
  7. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    In a NASCAR car there is no thermostat or they're used to not be The thermostat is a round plate that's about 2 and 1/2 in diameter and in the center of it and about a 7/8 or smaller hole is your thermostat wax pellet and the part that moves up and down In the NASCAR car that wax pellet and whatnot is not even there there's a restrictor plate fitted that takes the 2-in diameter of the thermostat plate has a calibrated hole in the middle of it with no wax balls spring or any of that that calibrated hole which is about 3/4 of an inch has to be there If you were to just bolt the thermostat housing closed without that plate that used to hold the wax pellet and all that. With a hole in it that's too large and allows too much water to fly through the system the water will fly through the system and the air cannot get through the radiator fast enough to remove the heat from the water as it's flying through the radiator at 90 mph take that restrictor plate and make the hole 3/4 of an inch instead of an inch and a half and now the water has to move slower through the radiator where it can what we call dwell in the radiator so that the air can come through the radiator remove the heat and the water continue on back where it needs to go cooled this is a fact I'm not talking about particular matter being clogged up in the radiator I'm talking about the reason why the inverter pump doesn't use a pump like the pump that's used for the coolant heat storage tank or the heat between the two brake parts because that pump moves water at a higher rate of speed which is good for heat and for moving the water from the coolant heat storage tank back into the system quickly on the inverter we're not trying to have water move quickly through the system because it doesn't generate generally as much heat and the water has a smaller area of radiator for the air to cool it off so the water needs to move through it slower than the ice radiator so the heat can be wicked away maybe I'm not using the correct words like mayonnaise and all the terminology but these things have been dealt with for years when I was racing cars with idiots back in the day this was all pretty known stuff but anyway the water in a radiator if it doesn't have time to dwell in the radiator for the air to get through and actually move the heat then you will not be having good cooling this has been proven time and time and again I've done it in an old Toyota Corolla take out the thermostat go for a good drive and you will notice your heat gauge climbing way above half gauge where it's been most of its life because the water is not getting the heat removed from it add the restrictor plate with just the wax pellet in the spring removed and you're back to half gauge almost immediately because the water is staying in the radiator long enough for the air to do its job.
     
  8. MAX2

    MAX2 Senior Member

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    In the engine cooling system, it is correct to maintain the temperature in the 70-90 C (158-194) F mode (for maximum engine efficiency) and prevent the engine from overheating, and a thermostat is used for this.

    There is no thermostat in the coolant circulation system for the inverter.

    The task in cooling the inverter and the MG - to cool and only cool, so that the systems do not fail from overheating.

    Transistor assemblies in the inverter tend to quickly reach critical temperatures and die.

    For this, rapid heat dissipation is important.

    The temperature difference on the radiator fins and inside the inverter should quickly equalize due to the circulation of the coolant.
     
  9. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Due to the not too fast circulation which is just a low flow pump . Purposefully placed for that low flow in this particular application That's why they don't have a pump like the one that's between the brake pieces on the firewall or the CHS tank pump doing that duty . Might be too much flow and not have adequate cooling That's why they have that little mag drive pump that barely moves any water so as it's barely moving through the radiator the 70 mi an hour wind from the fan or the car rushing forward is carrying that heat away at 70 mph because the coolant is slowly moving through that smaller radiator but anyway yeah all of that.