Head Gasket Replacement Gone Wrong

I’m going with just that part, just seems sensible. You’re not the first.

 

You can replace just the part with a second hand one. No problem.

 

Sometimes those bearing caps and the housing below them are machined together (the bearing caps attached and then the camshaft holes finish bored). Toyota might say to keep them together. But swapping them might work well enough even if you don't get another 200,000 out.

 

You have to look and see how that's manufactured and all of that but I don't think so I believe if you take another cap I have several here in a few heads and stick it on like get the same number caps they were dealing with number four get a number for a cap if there's an arrow on it flip it around the right way attach it temporarily with two bolts or nuts however it's held down and your system and you could take a bore gauge swirl it around in the hole Lock it down pull it out and measure it I should give you a pretty good reading with a micrometer or even a set of well made dial calipers and you should be able to get yourself pretty close to what you're supposed to have if you have a few other caps and you're getting measurements that don't make sense try a couple of the other caps and see if that brings you closer facing the right direction and so on Not really serious rocket science going on here but you want to get to the closest of the clearance specifications that you can but I think there's enough of a range in these things that it's not going to be a serious problem you'll see when you go to assemble it put that one on first and tighten it down just slowly to see if the cam still turns just sitting there and there's no play take a small something to pry under the camshaft with and lift gently and see if there's any slopper play You could set a dial indicator on the head and touch the cam and then use your prying tool to move the camshaft up and see what kind of response you get from the dial indicator on a 200,000 mi engine or whatever I'm sure this is not going to be that mission critical how many more thousand miles do you think you're going to run the 2ZF engine yeah exactly.

 

Hmm, not sure, in light of @ChapmanF's comments. This isn't the first time someone's need to replace just one I'm sure. As mentioned, they may have been assembled and then bored inline. Repair Manual alludes to keeping them in order:

 

Another, very topical thread, same story:

I can’t get any break.... | PriusChat

Cradle assembly, apparently the smallest "part" available (individual caps not):

Toyota USA website:
Camshaft Housing Sub-Assembly #11103-37032 | Autoparts.toyota.com

Dealership price (discounted some):
Camshaft Housing Sub-Assembly #11103-37032 | Autoparts.toyota.com

part no's, several contenders, found on Amayama, spec'ing frame number ZVW30L-AHXEBK (our 2010):

11103-37030
11103-37031
11103-37032
11103-0T051
11103-0T051
(for either of the last two above, I'm seeing $282 CDN, with shipping TBD_)

Similar format frame number should be shown on your VIN decal, in driver's door opening.

Source for above: Cylinder head for Toyota Prius ZVW30L - Genuine parts - Amayama

Do verify part number.

 

I would say given how long these engines generally go after a repair I wouldn't worry about it just be happier driving the car and it's not making a racket and everything is everything One camshaft bearing tap being a tad out of spec and you got four more yeah I mean it's kind of a stretch to think that that's going to take out the engine or the head anytime real soon but anything is possible with these guys as we've seen

 

Yeah I think if the factory assembles the cradle, torques down all the cap bolts, then runs a bore through all the whole assembly for the camshaft, all four caps will be close. The consistency of the dimension on the caps from centre of bore to machined underside determines how close.

Any lateral variations can be taken up by the bolt hole slop.

 

You need to manually rotate engine in reverse of usual rotation, so rotate it counterclockwise, 5~10 degrees, till you hear it release. This is at the front passenger side wheel well, facing the "front" of the engine, with the beltless pulley.

If valve cover is still off you maybe can see it's taken up slack too, not sure. Last link in my signature is the full engine section from repair manual, info's in there, towards the end of reassemble process.

BTW, I've never done this, just an armchair mechanic, hoping to keep it that way.

Addendum: yeah see page 18 and 19, in the "engine" pdf, bottom link in my signature. Best to download, but you can view online.

 

Thank you for the great information on this.