Just how the hell

I've seen many tik-tok videos where they simply transfer the weight of the vehicle to the end of the breaker bar or other tool to get stuck parts loose.

 

Rusty hub jobs, yay.

You probably got the bolts out with no particular fuss and are now simply facing a hub that won't budge.

There are many threads around here with ideas.

I got a rear hub out of my gen 1 using a conventional slide hammer puller and many many many whacks, leaving my arm very very tired.

I would be inclined to try an air hammer next time. I think I would aim it tangentially to the base of the hub, try and get the thing to turn a little. Turn it enough and maybe move the threaded holes out of alignment with the clear-bored ones. Then there are additional options like running bolts into the threaded holes to press with.

If using a slide hammer, I recommend leaving a couple bolts in, by the first couple threads. That way when the thing at last does move, it comes out that far and stops, and doesn't send you back on your duff with a slide hammer, hub, disc shield, and miscellaneous brake parts.

The shield did come off with my hub. I then separated them by kind of remounting the hub with spacers behind it, then driving the shield backward by tapping with a drift, all around where it fits over the hub. Worked ok, I reused the shield.

Oh, there was a lot of penetrating oil used, too.

 

Sometimes the difference between with-right-tools and without-right-tools is big enough to justify extreme measures. Is there anywhere you could borrow or rent some tools?

Me, I would go straight for a small compressor and an air hammer. I did successfully use a slide hammer once, but once was enough.

 

Take a big hammer, and a punch. Hit the hub to rotate it clockwise and counter clockwise.
Use lose of rust penetrant. Move it maybe an inch or so, then to the other way. And smack the hub
a few time. As you rotate it, it will free up and loosen. Hitting, away from car, will ease it out.
Penetrant will help it free up.
You'll likely see it slowly creeping out. You can try a chisel between the surfaces at 180 degrees
to hammer in, not TOO hard or deep. This will help move it out. It may take a while, but a lot less work
and stress on you.

Once it is off, use a wire brush, sandpaper, etc., to clean up the matting surface and apply antisieze to keep the
new hub from ending up the say way.
If you rotate it enough, you can use a bolt to thread through to put pressure on two spots 180 degrees apart.
then smack it with the hammer, tighten bolt, repeat....

 

An air hammer can whack it two thousand times a minute.

By the time I got mine off with a slide hammer, I felt as if I'd whacked it two thousand times. Took me a lot longer than a minute.

 

Some have had success with strategically placed threaded rod and nuts:

Solved, rear wheel bearing removal, easy way | PriusChat

I would think apply some pressure, then whack around with heavy ball-peen or light sledge hammer, repeat, till it hopefully breaks loose.
no personal experience.

 

Kroil

 

Yep and zi personally loose the back plate have em off all cars since oh about 97 or so but on drum brakes you stuck . Then I was adding rear disc usually Celica and Corolla models AE86 Hachiroku cars

 

You don't need to get behind it. ROTATE it.
Some use an air hammer to rotate it, but if you don't have that......

 

One of my favourite channels:

there’s a much older video by him too, same subject; the battle was protracted. He’s got it down to routine now.

 

Many retail auto parts places, here in the US anyway, will allow you to pay a deposit on a tool and take it home, use it on your job, and return it and get your deposit back.

Certainly for hand tools like a slide hammer. I've never checked for something more involved like a compressor and an air hammer. But even if there is no free borrowing, renting should be an option.

I have lived in places where the public library had a tool section.