My car stalled in the middle of the road, and I needed to call a tow truck. The company that towed it did not use wheel dollies and the hydraulic line blew on the flatbed and when unloading my car it appears they dropped it about a foot and the repair cost $2859.30. There was damage done to the left front suspension and tie rods and the steering rack was damaged and needed replacing. Parts alone were $1331.91. After the repair the technician attempted to calibrate the SAS and it showed -850 and was not responsive. He told me the blow most likely broke the sensor in the steering column and that a new SAS Clock spring sensor with installation and calibration would cost about $1000 to do. Any other places in Minnesota other than a Toyota Dealership that can do this for less?. I bought a used one-off Ebay and Installed it myself and I cleared the codes with my Launch code reader I bought off Amazon and the code is C1626. The car appeared to be fixed but the code came back within a few miles of driving it. Is the sensor I installed now damaged or can it be calibrated. The original code was C1231
Yeah you can do this in about 35 minutes with a 19 mm socket extension and a ratchet you'll need a I believe it's a t30 torx bit to undo the bolts in the side wings of your steering wheel the plastic pops out where the stalks are and then your airbag will drop down into some little yellow clits you pop up with an awl and they just pop right off I've done it with the 12 volt connected in the car off and I've done it with the 12 volt disconnected either way pretty uneventful then set the airbag down you will see the 19mm bolt directly in front of you but before that you need to unplug the stuff at 12:00 there's three plugs they can only go in their respective places so you can't mix them up You pull those loose now undo the 19 mm nut while holding the steering wheel lefty loosey withdraw the nut till it's almost off and then rock the steering wheel while pulling back clunk it hits the nut undo the nut remove the steering wheel now you're staring at the clock spring It literally unclips from the master control switch and there are two or three plugs as you see and the square portion which I believe is at 12:00 right behind where you unplugged the three plugs from the steering wheel there's the adjacent plugs that go to the car harness undo those undo the clips all around that are holding the clock spring on and it should withdraw. There's a bunch of videos on this I would recommend getting a factory clock spring if you can there's a lot of them on eBay off of other cars there's some new options that sort of thing I've taken them off other cars personally and put them right on mine I think there's a few here in a box doesn't seem like a real complicated part to manufacture but companies fubar it anyway
What does it matter what it costs? The tow truck company is responsible for the repairs. They broke it!
I replaced the original with one I bought off Ebay (Complete unit both clock spring and SAS). I thought I fixed it when I cleared the codes with my Launch Creader elite OBD2 scanner. Everything appeared good no traction control light on the dashboard and 2.5 miles later it came on again. Is the Ebay one I put in now busted or can it be calibrated? the original one was busted according to the Toyota Dealership since it was not responsive to Techstream. Other than a Toyota Dealership is there any other place to get it fixed in Minnesota that doesn't charge $1000 to fix it?
I don't know about that but I can't imagine them charging you $1,000 to replace a clock spring You see how fast that would go so I don't know how they do things in Minnesota I'm a thousand miles away anyway I don't know if you have a scanner that's capable of doing that it might be able to be dealt with in that way I can't see from here I have two scanners and both of them will do this business if it can be done or nothing's broken If the clocks bring they installed is a cheap Chinese fake some of these can have problems right out of the box but unfortunate as that may be
My insurance wanted to total out my car because it is 15 years old and has 397,000 miles on it. I paid for the repair and then they promptly paid me $1644 which was all they were willing to pay. I was hoping they would deal with the negotiation with the Towing company but all they were doing is recovering my $500 deductible. So yes, I am dealing with the Towing company to get it fully covered. I am still needing to find where I can fix it at a reasonable cost (because the Dealership wants $1000) if I so desire to recalibrate of replace the SAS sensor so I don't have to look at the traction control light and the check PCS and a yellow triangle on the dash plus no cruise control or traction control.
