Cost-effective A/C UV dye for hybrids

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by TBM, May 3, 2025 at 1:56 PM.

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  1. TBM

    TBM Junior Member

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    In this post Tom Lech (lech auto air condition, very helpful guy!!) recommends two kinds of UV dye.
    Can you use R134 instead of R134a refrigerant in a Gen 2 Prius? | PriusChat
    Both are expensive.

    In this post, Mr. Lech seems to approve using refrigerant plus UV dye (Johnsen’s, product 6313, which costs $14 to $16 for a 12 oz can if you can find it):
    AC system maintenance / repair / recharge | PriusChat
    Does it contain incompatible oil?

    It’s a decent price for a DIY-er fixing one car, and it’s a convenient way to get dye into an empty AC system. No additional injection tools needed – it goes in through the yellow manifold hose. But is this product really OK for our hybrids?

    FJC 4921 mentioned in the same topic, post #17, seems to be a good alternative for R134a + dye. It’s a smaller can, only 2 ounces of R134a, so I’d have to add pure R134a afterward to flush the mix through my manifold and hoses.

    Background
    2007 Prius, 230,000 miles, A/C not working. I’ve never worked on A/C, so I’m trying to be careful. I’ve learned enough to avoid the wrong kinds of compressor oil. I bought gauges/manifold/hoses and a vacuum pump, UV flashlight, etc. from Amazon. No rental gauge kit from Autozone for me – too likely to contaminate my car!

    I found that Certified A/C Pro “Universal” UV dye says in fine print “Do not use for electric compressors and/or hybrid vehicles”, so it must contain an incompatible base oil.

    Total noob + broken A/C = could be trouble ahead
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Now the generation twos are easy systems to work on. So your system is empty completely? You have no idea I get it's got a buttload of miles and you've got no air no problem so why haven't you just shot some AC Auto repair black can from Walmart right into the system if it looks closed and not messed with shoot some in there and see what happens does it start to make cold make cold for a week and then all of a sudden stop? Running a tad bit of the wrong oil for a couple of days or a couple of weeks isn't going to certainly hurt anything that's already probably hurt or damaged already like if you have a core leak that sort of thing to be honest I have a car with 134a in it with regular 134a oil in it in the electric compressor and a generation 2 looks like it's going to go to the junkyard before the air conditioner fails be right around 600,000 so I'm not sure how long it takes for the oil to make some kind of electronics fail or what really goes on but this car so far so good and I've got another one coming up on similar mileage with non-approved transmission fluid in it oh well so I guess it's just a matter of how fast the given fluids will break down the electronics that they're exposed to or some such kind of thing I would think it should still be quite a good bit of time.
     
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  3. TBM

    TBM Junior Member

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    Thanks Tombukt2. I read in another of your posts that you're running regular compressor oil. I think I'll avoid that and stick to approved oils.

    System is empty; low and high side gauges read 0. I'm going to pull vacuum on it and see what happens. Hopefully I didn't grind the compressor to shreds during the months that my A/C has been broken.

    I learned more about the Johnsen's 6313 R134a + UV dye product. The Johnsen's website is down for maintenance, but the Wayback Machine (web.archive.org) provided me a saved copy of the product webpage. They link a Safety Data Sheet, so I looked at that. Description is "> 99%" refrigerant, no oil at all. Good! Probably @lech auto air conditionin already knew that.

    This product is a little hard to find. WalMart has it in a 3-pack, 12 oz per can, online sales only, so I'll buy that. About 50 bucks, so it's almost in my "expensive" category, but at least it's 3 12-oz. cans. Easy to get it into the car through the manifold's yellow hose; no special tools.

    The Safety Data Sheets (SDS) are a good resource -- I ruled out a different product, FJC 4921 that way. It contains 1 ounce R134a and 2 ounces "leak detection dye". The SDS says only "Proprietary" for that dye component, so I can't tell if it is hybrid-compatible. Or even if that 2 ounces is an oil of some kind. Not gonna buy that.
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    The gas leaked out oils still in full up w gas and see how long it goes before no coolant anymore . Should give idea of leak size etc . No need to do anything w oil till ya have idea what job will be. I'm generally tryna get 600K usually get em at like 180 or so . I'm not having to worry about warranties expressed or implied or any of that kind of stuff because there's nobody expressing or implying. I have nothing in these things so there's always that
     
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