Combo Meter Capacitor Reading Question.

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by PriuSocal, May 18, 2025 at 12:13 AM.

  1. PriuSocal

    PriuSocal Member

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    Hey guys,

    I wanted to get some direct information on the capacitor readings I am getting now that I also took out my combo meeter due to it working intermittently.

    I tested the 3 capacitors on the far left and a bit confused on the readings. Here are the readings for each and a photo for reference.

    10uf 35v read 530
    100uf 16v read 104.6
    330uf 35v read 330.6

    So I read that the acceptable range on the capacitors is +/- 15-20% and can tell the 330 and 100 are good since they are reading at or near the acceptable range BUT the 10uf is reading way off, in the 500 range as a whole with NO decimal (unless I am reading the multimeter wrong). All read 3 numbers within their spec plus a decimal amount but the 10uf does not.

    I read that unless the readings are way off on the capacitors, they are good but curious as to whether I should still replace them or not as most videos I have seen only replace the 100uf with a 220uf 16v (which I have) and it all works again.

    Any help or link to a video where someone is actually testing the capacitors with a multimeter would greatly help. Also, I recall seeing a video (i cannot find it now) where someone also replaced other capacitors on the combo meter using the 220uf 16v capacitor but tond recall which ones.

    Screenshot 2025-05-17 at 9.15.04 PM.png
     
    #1 PriuSocal, May 18, 2025 at 12:13 AM
    Last edited: May 18, 2025 at 12:27 AM
  2. Thomas Zak

    Thomas Zak New Member

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    You are overlooking the most important thing to check with electrolytic capacitors. You need to check their ESR. I've redone many of these now. Typically the 100uF cap has low ESR, but the 10uF is often even worse. The 330uF usually checks ok. Given they cost less than a dollar each, I replace all 3 to be safe. Yes, there are lots of people blindly replacing the 100uF with a 220uF. This makes no sense. These and all electrolytic capacitors loose their ESR because the electrolyte dries up as a result, of time and heat. The best prevention from loss of ESR is to use high quality, high temperature, and a higher voltage if possible. When I replace these I use genuine Panasonic automotive grade, high temperature capacitors, and use a 25v instead of 16v for the 100uF cap. I purchased them from Mouser. Part numbers below.

    667-EEE-FH1E101XL
    EEE-FH1E101XL
    Panasonic Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - SMD

    667-EEE-FH1V331L
    EEE-FH1V331L
    Panasonic Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - SMD

    667-EEE-FH1V100XL
    EEE-FH1V100XL
    Panasonic Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors - SMD
     
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  3. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Don't the guys in Texas have a video on this I don't ever do this personally I get mine from them send back my old one get the discount whatever it is I'm not one to be doing a lot of tiny soldering and solder sucking and all that but I thought this was all sorted you buy these three or four capacitors solder them on and that's it I don't know if all of the people that are replacing these are testing everyone what they're doing I think a lot of people are just going with the flow and replacing those down there in the corner below the display portion of the board the three silver or three or four silver thing but I don't know where all the videos are.
     
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  4. PriuSocal

    PriuSocal Member

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    I am not sure how to test or what ESR means in a capacitor. All the videos, especially the ones where the author actually does the repair for profit do NOT show any other capacitor replacement other than the 100uf. Hence, the reason why I am here. I can desolder and solder in a replacement for the 10uf and 330uf no prob there, but wanted some help with the readings mentioned above. However, if I need to test for this “ESR” and need a special tool other than the multimeter I have (Klein Tools MM600), then I am probably best just replacing them while I am here.
     
  5. PriuSocal

    PriuSocal Member

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    The job is def tedious and in my experience, the removal and installation is the hardest part. I personally do not think the repair is worth the $100-$150 but, I do believe that you pay for experience and knowledge more than actual labor or part cost nowadays. Especially, since some people are not willing to get down and dirty like this especially with soldering. The funny thing is that you literally have to do the hardest part yourself and the easiest part (soldering) is left to these geniuses offering the service. I may be in the wrong business myself lol
     
  6. PriuSocal

    PriuSocal Member

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    Also, I did notice that its hard to find a kit with all 3 of these capacitors included and left to only 2 of these in a kit or 1 but never all 3. I did see that most videos online recommend to replace the 100uf 16v with a 220uf 16v, so is the standard rule that replacing a capacitor with the next microfarad number up but within its voltage or can that go up as well for example:

    replacing a 330uf 35v with a 330uf 50v.

    Perhaps a dumb question but want to clarify as I am NO electrical guru lol
     
  7. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I can't sit still long enough to do that kind of work
     
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  8. PriuSocal

    PriuSocal Member

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    stand up lol :giggle: