Thermos not working

With the car cold and the tray out open the radiator cap and confirm that it is full. Low coolant can cause those codes. If the overflow was normal and the radiator low have the radiator cap tested. If you have not already done so mark the center point of the overflow tank with a sharpie, that makes reading the level there more reliable than just eyeballing "middle".

If the thermos pump never runs, but it will with the relay socket jumpered, it might indicate that the relay itself is bad. Could also just be dirty contacts. Pull it and if the "legs" are not shiny clean spray them with electrical contact cleaner until they are. Inspect the socket itself for corrosion and dirt. It would probably be OK to spray contact cleaner in there, but only if the car was cold and off, as the stuff is flammable.

If the relay tests good and its contacts are good and the coolant level is good I guess you would need to start testing electrical signals starting at the pump and working back towards whatever ECU drives those lines.

 

It might be easier to simply got to a Pick n' Pull and find a similar wrecked Prius and pull the whole thermos and pump assembly out and put that in your car... I've found that if a 3-way valve has been broken for lots of years before repair, the system never seems to work very well after that, compared to a system that was quickly repaired when the 3-way valve failed.

 

But if the pump is not getting power and it runs when we jump it. Then we've got a driving problem of that circuit whatever circuit that may be I'll have to pull the book down literally and look where it goes. I wonder if there's a way to jump her this thing out of the system because I never seem to need it my car either sits too long and the water in the thermoses you know 80° if you're lucky or less and when the sun comes up it'll be $100 outside. In Winter same thing it's so cold out unless you're making short runs I can't imagine that thermos being that efficient I know yeti cups and stuff like that are not what they're all cracked up to be so I've seen these thermoses and had the parts apart they look about equal to a yeti cup but obviously bigger

 

That is, well, very odd.

The tank is a tank, hoses are hoses, the valve would be new. So what part is acting up to make it work less well? One wouldn't expect sedimentation in this system, and the tank and hoses don't really care if the fluid is moving or not. If anything they probably last longer when it isn't since there would be no force to knock off loose bits. Maybe the little pump under the tank gets sticky or a plastic component goes out of round or something like that if it isn't exercised once in a while? Also I suppose there might be some slow reaction that releases gas inside the tank so that it ends up with a bubble on top, even just air coming out of the coolant solution somehow. But that should go away when the coolant system is bled. Bacterial growth? pH is pretty high and there's not much for a bug to eat in there, nor much air. Still, there could be some odd bug that can eat PEG and transfer electrons in an anaerobic environment. Not that one would expect it to be in the closed system in the first place!

 

I think the coolant sitting in their for years without circulating is the source of the problem.... It probably gets sludge in the wrong places.

 

Coolant doesn't fall out of solution or polymerize. At least, not that I have ever seen. Normally it doesn't get very dirty either. At one point I put a couple of drops of coolant from the ICE loop on some filter paper, and some brand new coolant on another piece. They looked identical - there was nothing visible where the drops landed in either case. Which is very different from, for instance, motor oil, once it has been in the engine for a while.

Anyway, assuming the sludge theory is correct, that suggests that one should flush the thermos and associated hoses and pumps before adding coolant back and putting the car back into service.

 

When I take him out of cars and flush out the tank there is clean as a whistle if you take out the plastic fitting on the bottom and all that off the tank you can see in there that's just stainless steel aluminum whatever it is silver and doesn't that thing get emptied every time you start the car every few hours or something water circulates kind of sort of through the tank just by nature I don't think the water just sits in the tank I mean it sits there when you turn the car off and then when you turn the car on whenever time is right or whatever it injects hot water into the system I would imagine it empties the thing out and as it's emptying out it feels back up where it's pulling water from I think off of the plastic part of the back of the water pump.

 

The P1116 (I presume that is what the OP means by 1116) is all about the CHRS outlet temperature sensor.

That could be fixed by replacing the whole CHRS system, assuming the replacement from the junkyard is fully functional, but it is a rather drastic way to replace the sensor (if that is what is wrong).

If the CHRS pump is not running at all, then that could affect the outlet temperature sensor readings.

It might pay to diagnose the fault properly and find out whether it is a wiring problem, a connector problem, a temperature problem, or an ECM problem. It could also be a clogging issue in the coolant system.

The manual also recommends fixing any other DTCs (P1121, in this case) before the P1116. You say you have done that, but have you used your scan tool to command it to the various positions to very it is functioning?

I don't know what you mean by this.

 

Yeah if it's a sensor issue that's just screwed on the side of the tank probably $30 it unscrews with a wrench problem is most Toyota temp sensors are pretty stout like I've replaced the one on the back of the cylinder head on cars that have those since like 85 you know for fuel injection I've replaced a couple of those temp sensors on Toyota's maybe four times in my whole life out of ridiculous amounts of cars and engines and Toyota's that we've had since those sensors came online in that fuel injection setup so about 81 82 I have a bunch of these things out I'm going to check a few of these temp sensors to see if there's something going on with the one that screwed into the CHS tank does it looks like pretty much other Toyota temp sensors throughout the years that I've seen in other Toyotas without fuel injection for like the temperature gauge so not sure.