Greetings and thanks in advance for any guidance or advice anyone can share. Looking to buy from used car dealer,$9500 asking, 2012 Prius V with 128K with Tech package & Moonroof). a one owner clean title (saw the car fax with dealer servicing of basic maintenance, a minor accident, recalls done, etc). Excellent interior, & exterior, 3 new Goodyear Assurance tires. 1 poor tire. Pearl white paint and tinted windows, so we love the look of it vs our current light blue 2013 V Five. The white one would be for our daughter to go off to grad school in August and need about 3 years and 50K of miles, so we think we could skirt the head gasket issue assuming the hybrid battery lasts that long. Seller just replaced hybrid with a Green Bean battery with 2 year warranty. No warning lights or codes after the install I was told.. Some days later, it started showing various warning lights on dash and only code it shows is the P0A80 replace Hybrid battery. Green Bean emailed seller and said things like The car needs to be driven for roughly 15 days driving at least 15 miles per trip. Blah blah blah. They have on their website that there should be no codes after install and nothing about a break-in period to reset the code. During the test drive, it drove well, etc. The warning lights that were on were the PCS (pre collision system) blinking, Dynamic Cruise Control Yellow and it wouldn't work, BRAKE, Squiggly Traction Control light, and the yellow (!) light(brakes?) In addition, there was a green E3 displayed next to the clock. I can't find any info on this one. We have a pre-inspection scheduled next week by local Toyota Dealer. $150 and they will be able to scan the battery via their "Health Scan" or something like that. A deeper dive into the causes of the battery issues would be another $130. I just am at a loss if we should go forward at all with the $150 inspection, I have read many mixed reviews of Green Bean batteries since they were bought out. Or to just walk away. We love the car, but can't have headaches with Green Bean. Maybe if we spend the $150, find out the battery is bad, have the Seller get GB to replace it, then we might be interested. Thanks again to anyone who has helpful advice.
Exactly. But you need to know if the battery code is history or current. This requires Techstream or similar scanner. The dealer diagnostic would be definitive on this. Have you asked about transferring the warranty? Find out directly, not through the seller. I seem to recall it has a short time window if it is still an option. These worry me more when combined with the previous wreck. Failed brake booster comes to mind or sensors or both. Don't buy unless everything is clear and stays clear which may take a few days if the seller or dealer forces a code reset. Overall I would not buy it. Any seller who tried to sell it with these codes is either clueless or a scammer in my opinion