Can anybody point me to a video or clear instructions on replacing the inverter fuse in my 2010 Prius? Thank you.
Before you get too far into it, the only readily replaceable fuse I know of in there is the one leading to the A/C compressor. Is that what you're having trouble with?
Well, in that case, there's not a whole lot to it. That's a high-voltage section, so like any work involving high-voltage sections, you start by pulling the orange service plug grip from the battery at the back of the car and then doing something else for 10 minutes while voltage can drain off the capacitors in the inverter. Then you just do the thing: Do take an extra long look at the torque spec for the fuse bolts. Notice they say 35 inch-pounds. I'll say it again, inch-pounds. You won't believe how many people post on PriusChat about mistaking some inch-pound torque spec for foot-pounds, and using a foot-pound torque wrench and breaking stuff right off. Don't be one of them. 35 inch-pounds is not even three foot-pounds. If you don't have a small-enough torque wrench, a wrench whose length you know and pulling on it with a kitchen scale can work. Notice it says to pull the cover straight up because there is a connector on the bottom that engages two pins sticking up from the inverter. You also have to pay attention to that when you put the cover back on (straight down). Make sure the connector mates with those pins. That's a safety interlock circuit to make sure the cover is on, and if those pins don't get connected the car won't go READY and you'll get a P0A0D code. When the cover is all buttoned up you can go back to the rear again and take the orange safety plug out of your pocket and plug it back in. Notice how, in addition to the giant contacts inside that complete the battery circuit, there is another little connector attached to the flippy handle part and it mates with two small pins at the battery, only when you flip the handle back down and shove it sideways to its normal position. Those pins are part of the same safety interlock circuit, so you'll get the same won't-go-READY and P0A0D code if you don't get that last flip-and-shove right. That catches a lot of people.
