So I did the HG , new water pump and thermostat. No longer getting over pressurization in coolant overflow and back to normal coolant temps during driving. BUT this motor is worn out and showed signs of neglect. Cylinder bores had shiny areas . All piston tops were ok, and traveled to top of cylinders evenly. So I'm researching options. Brand new short block. Used long block. Local sourced long block vs JDM long block? I'm in Maine USA so far away from California. The body, paint and interior all in very good condition.
How does it run? I would not change it unless it's burning lots of oil or it's still rattling. A dealer would do a new short block assuming the head was flat. But having them do it is ridiculous. But if you can do it you would end up with a reliable engine. I would have someone like Hybrid Pit ship me a rebuilt engine. For cost reasons I might go JDM but you could get an older 2010-14 engine with the low tension rings or you could get a used in Japan 2018-21 engine. But there is no way to id the year.
What’s the miles? Rate of oil consumption? last link in my signature is 3rd gen engine section, from repair manual. (On a phone turn it landscape to see signatures) this might be of use, if only as an option, and to get the short block part no: https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1140037140 Amayama employs VIN and/or frame no to confirm compatibility, both are on drivers door decal. according to The Car Care Nut, any Toyota-sold short block will have the revised pistons and rings now. attached has part nos for (revised) pistons/rings, head bolts, and gasket kit.
Guys, thanks for the reply's/info. I'm a Hybrid newbie but long time Toyota loyalist. Fist car was a '74 Celica ST ironically had the 1800cc 18R motor. Bought this V in Salt Lake City in April. Drove it around a week there and drove it back to Maine. Put 4K miles on it and Oil stayed clean and no noticeable oil consumption. "Bad" things found during the head gasket change: Found puddle of black oil in bottom of intake. Intake and EGR restricted but not clogged. Cleaned both BUT I think I should pull EGR and clean it better! Want to add a catch can. So the hood was up open for like ten days and what appeared to be motor oil started to at 1st weep off of bottom edge of the hood under liner actually start to drip oil in the bottom right corner. Like someone drove the car with the oil cap off! Maybe? Seen that before back in the late '70s on my bosses 76 Corolla lol. Cut open oil filter and was some bright metal specs in the filter. The cylinder bores ALL showed signs of over compression or oil starvation. The shiny areas were mostly about a inch to two inches below TDC and in the front and back areas. (have not done a compression test) While pistons all appeared to equally return to top and at top were "tight" in the bore they did have noticeable rotational wiggle. That is NG. I have only put about 150 miles on it since finishing the HG so oil consumption is unknown. MPG is good but I am a long term Hyper Miler so I tend to get high MPG.(38-40 on pure flat hwy in my 2017 Mazda3 GT 2.5 6 speed) Engine noise, IDK as I'm used to very smooth and quiet motors in Camrys and the Mazda.It's a bit more noisy then I'm used to. No clunking or knocks, yet. Some may ask why I didn't just stop and not do HG after finding these poor motor conditions! LOL. for one I couldn't tell the wife the car I bought in SLC needs a motor and I need it running to get it out of my garage. Would definitely catch crap for that. In hindsight should have passed on this one. The exterior and interior is what got me and ZERO RUST. Here in North East everything over 5-7years old, especially if not garaged is a rust bucket. Quick search I find the short block in stock state side for like $1900 delivered. Would need to add on timing chain kit, get head decked and gone thru. Gonna fill it up and use it mostly local for now. Pete
