4th generation EGR cooler removal/cleaning (100k service)

Is there a step-by-step for the EGR cooler removal on the 2016 through 2018 models? Is there maybe a procedure on how to clean it without removing it? I have seriously thought about getting a can of compressed air with a small straw nozzle and going in there just to blow crap out...

TL/DR:
Unless there are some magic search terms other than "4th generation Prius EGR cooler removal," there seems to be precious little about the 4th generation on YouTube and in these forums. Using the term "2ZR-FXE" any in any of the searches just brings up nutzaboutbolts' great stuff on the 3rd gen. There's so much more room in those older engine compartments, talk about a hot dog thrown down a hallway!

While the engines are incredibly similar, it's like the same house plan on two different lots, an acre and a quarter acre.

My 2018 Prius 3 is about to hit 100k. I've already changed the spark plugs (and actually saw a slight improvement in MPG) 20,000 miles ago... Toyota had an online sale of 20% off, combined with the dealership discount, I paid only $10 per OEM spark plug.

My 100K service will be to:
• Change the PCV
• Clean the intake manifold (replace the gasket)
• Clean the EGR pipe (replace the silicone and metal gaskets)
• Clean the EGR cooler
• Test the brake fluid and coolant
• Change the oil
• Drain and fill the transmission
• Run the A/C refresher kit and replace the cabin filter
• I cleaned the mass air flow sensor and replaced the air filter at 95k

This will be the last major service on it with the hope that it'll carry it another 100,000 miles without a head gasket going out. Don't laugh! I can dream...

Without the winter blend of 10% ethanol here in California, my P3 typically will get 60 MPG over an entire tank most of the year. With the ethanol blend, it's usually more like 56.5 to 57.5 MPG.

Along with that, I understand the heating/cooling cycles that the gas engine will go through are greatly increased, I am keeping an eye on exhaust gases getting into the coolant. I also understand that, once the coolant starts to go acidic, the head gaskets go bad faster. I've already changed the coolant for both systems at 5 years with pretty good pH and glycol readings.

I will also be doing a drain and fill on the transmission as I did back at 52k. I strictly use OEM parts and fluids (try using the 91945 ZIP code using Toyota's parts website and check out their pricing) except for brake fluid and motor oil. I have been changing the oil every 5,000 miles starting at 27.5k. I learned a big lesson about Toyota's horrible recommended service periods when I checked the dipstick at 27.5k and it was black. I have also learned a lot about the Atkinson cycle engines.

I exclusively use TopTier gasoline with PEA additives and will still add Gumout Multi-Sytem Tune-up every 10K. I will be using Valvoline Restore and Protect just to clean up the low tension piston rings since the engine doesn't continuously run to burn off contaminants like a regular internal combustion engine would.

I will also be switching to my third accessory battery. My car is equipped with a Viofo A129 Plus Duo that utilizes parking mode (which has done incredible things for us, including getting us out of two campus parking tickets!) After my OEM H4 battery lasted about 3.5 years, I went with a 26R battery that I bought at Costco and is made by Interstate. It had higher CCAs but is a traditional lead acid battery. It is starting to go bad under warranty. I will be going with a Walmart H4 AGM battery made by Clarios under the EverStart name. For this model, the battery is in the engine compartment and is not required to be an AGM. I looked at buying a Toyota H4, but they do not offer it in an AGM format as far as I can tell. That is one of the very few things that my favorite Toyota Parts Department will not ship.

I loved the ride of the original Dunlop Ecosave(?) tires although they only lasted 38k. At 62k, the Costco Michelins are still over 5. Tire pressures are checked every second gas tank fill, every 10° of weather change or every month, whichever comes first. I checked the spare tire twice a year. If the tires are hot when I am filling, I typically will add 5 lb of pressure during the winter and 4 lb of pressure during the summer

 

PS I am fully aware of the video linked and mention of this topic in another thread. It does not do the step-by-step that I am looking for.

Removing EGR Help Please | PriusChat

 

@Mendel Leisk - Thank you! While I will still disconnect the EGR line during the manifold removal, I'm leaving that cooler in there! As for the piston rings, that is also good news. My 2012 Prius V had sooooo many problems...

I hope the head gasket problem has died down. I do believe that I have heard of a reference on YouTube to it happening on one of the art deco tail light models, so between 2016 and 2018. Ultimately, the Prius does tend to attract those who do not maintain their vehicles with the same fervor as, say, a 4Runner.

I go through the old oil during my changes and, on two occasions have found chunks of metal over the last 30,000 miles or so. I make it a habit to pry the drain back valve and drain the oil from there. One was probably a good .3mm round and, More recently, a narrow piece 0.75mm long and maybe 0.1mm wide.

I do worry that that first 27,000 miles might have done some permanent damage. I always check the dipstick after somebody else does my oil change, but I was certainly ignorant to monitor the color and level down the road.

Thanks again!

 

Started disassembly. Wildly different in inconvenient ways versus 3rd gen. I feel like I'm hunting and pecking to get this apart.

Oil is pooled at the bottom of the manifold, but in microscopic amounts compared to what I've seen elsewhere on the third gen videos (which are probably people that are well overdue for that service). My EGR pipe is carbony, but appears to be pretty minor also compared to 3rd gen pipes. Piping light down it to look through is a bit tough, that carbon black shirt absorbs light

Still, rather do it now than in 2 years when I'm even less able to move, if I'm even alive, hahaha.

 

Time to wipe it all out.
Two and three appear to have a little more than one and four, but I will take that with a grain of salt because my lighting is really bad

 

Cleanest PCV I have seen at 100k-120k, if you count Nissans, cleanest PCV at 60k.


Strangely, there was a lot of sludgy stuff in the PCV line (along with the EGR ports which sacrificed up clumps of carbon. Initially, the PCV cleaning came out pretty black and after a little soaking with purple power, it profusely bled a coca cola color out.

Everything that I am rinsing with water goes to a final rinse with 130° hot water so that it'll dry faster I don't know how many drops of water can get into the system before hydrolock or something going south could happen. I would really like to finish this off today, but it's a muggy day and I might want to just use a hair dryer or let it sit out overnight.

 

The balance of the work group very well and much quicker than I expected.

The visible oil in the intake manifold was probably the worst of it. The EGR cleaned out so quickly I did a water Rinse and then sprayed purple power then rinsed and then soaked it in purple power for maybe 10 minutes and it is shiny clean. The EGR ports on the manifold brushed out nicely and rinsing out the main body brought out probably a dozen or so carbon flakes. I used the Shop-Vac blowing function to dry it all out as best I could and I reassembled it.

I only dropped my 10 mm socket twice. Thank the gods for the telescoping magnet stick thingy. I thanked the Harbor Freight gods frequently during this job. I bought a set of wobble extensions just because I didn't have any and I put them to good use torquing the manifold back on.

Nutz About Boltz was a good reference although many differences between 2015 and the fourth gen 2016+ exist.

Nice surprises include not having to loosen the dipstick tube, the throttle body gasket looking to be in really good shape (Toyota is not currently selling the throttle body gasket because it's under the umbrella of a recall) and not getting so much carbon, sludge and oil as the previous generation.

A surprise that created a little difficulty in removing the manifold was that the air intake is really crammed in there and I had to remember to move it to certain places during the reinstallation of the manifold.

The thing I probably luckiest to have done was to roll up the car on my Rhino Ramps (I use the 6000 lb set).

Because of that extra few inches, my back is not killing me. My original intention was to go up on the ramps, jack up the back and do the transmission fluid at the same time. I happened to forget to buy my tubing to feed the fluid from above. Doh! Small consolation is that I'm still 1,500 miles short of 100,000 miles...

 

I should have posted this picture...

Again, minimal effort to clean it. After an initial hot water rinse out which did nothing because the carbon was pretty waterproof, I heeded the pipe up with the hot water, drained it and sprayed purple power in it and it was bubbling, I didn't pour it in so it wasn't solid water but it sat for a few minutes and it rinsed right out. I used a 3M pad to clean off the ends to make sure it had a good contact surface.

TopTier fuel, fuel additives every 10,000 miles and 5k oil changes (since 27,500 miles).

Other than repairs, no more big maintenance on this car for me. I haven't heard of too many valve cover gaskets being problematic for this model. In the long run, a great purchase.

 

A nice surprise after my DIY 100K service... EGR, PCV, cleaning the air intake ports and adding the magic motor oil called Valvoline Restore and Protect.

I normally get about 55 to 57 MPG driving from my home to LAX which is about 97 miles...

I tend to drive a little heavier footed because I have to be there at a certain time or a certain future ex-wife screams like a banshee. I am not exaggerating.

My trip to LAX is 61 MPG. Just me in the car. With similar traffic, driving back, adding a suitcase or three and the FE-W, I got 62 mpg. Driving down to my daughter's place in San Diego, I got 64 MPG. That trip is usually even worse because I'm heavier-footed.

Fuel blends and atmospheric things aside, this is a night and day difference compared to before the 100k.

I have had really great tanks where I've gotten 70 MPG over the whole tank, but this just seems much more dramatic to me because I drove to LAX a few days before the work and I drove to LAX day after the work with pretty much the same conditions. These trips are over 95% freeway. Moderate traffic, nothing too bad.

My Michelin X-Tours have about 55,000 miles on them with plenty of life. I know new tires aren't as efficient as older tires.

 

I used the gravity feed for my transmission fluid this time. A billion times better.

One of the commenters on the video mentioned using a 5/8" OD line. It fit too perfectly. There needs to be a little room for the overflow to find its way out.

Fortunately, one of my funnels fit snuggly in the 1/2” ID of the Home Depot clear tubing. This was so much better than those stupid Performance Tool hand pumps that go straight on the bottle. Plus, there isn't a bunch of leftover oil at the bottom of each bottle that you pour into other bottles to have enough to use...