Gen 2 does not start after a breathalyzer was removed? No LED lit on Power Button.

Anyone every worked on a gen 2 or other with a breathalyzer installed and then removed and a no start situation? Power button does not respond nor does the LED light up.

I just found another 06 to save from the scrappers that was reported as the car did not start after the place that installed the breathalyzer thing a year ago removed the breathalyzer immobilizer. The owners could do nothing other than tow the Prius to their property and it has sat every since.

I swapped in a 12V battery to test and the Power button does not respond. No LED power appears. I didn't have a multimeter with me to test anything. Ants have invaded as well as this being another mouse house with some flea bite mementos brought back with me last night.

The fob seems to work as I placed in the slot and the flashing red Prius Immobilizer car key icon LED stopped flashing. The fob battery was dead however and no one had a small enough screw driver to swap in a good battery.

Anyone have any ideas on where to looks specifically? I'll probably start probing around and take the panels off to see what I can see.

 

Yeah, I said the same thing. Vulnerable victim, just stupid or what? I was thinking I can ask for the place that did and call and see what the technicians might disclose since I don't drink and haven't for almost a decade. Maybe they'll let me know? I was also surprised to read how many have had the same situation when doing a google search, albeit not for a Prius as of yet.

Guessing something to do with the circuit for the ignition and related to the Power button in some way.

 

I'll post some info here for future reference and try to make a video detailing. Basically, the systems seemed better detailed in this post below where I'll quote as well:

Design is in an unrelated wiring diagram linked here as well, though quoted from link above: "5 steps to the process to hook it up involving the Starter wire, Starter In/Out wire, Power VDD+, and ground wire. "

"thick black- Starter In, thick black- Starter Out, thin black- ground, red- VCC, green- Key On, brown- Analog, orange- Digital, grey- RS232. The Starter In is 2 white wires grouped together and the Starter Out wire is 2 yellow wires grouped together."

"I placed a red X on the wire you will cut to connect the Starter In and the Starter Out wires."

Get's me thinking I need to be on the look out for like I was thinking, an open where the starter or related Prius wire(s) were cut.

"You must connect those wires correctly, as I have noted on the schematic. You must also make sure they are securely connected. GM recommends the use of Duraseal connectors that are crimped properly. Those connectors have a built in sealer that is activated with a heat gun after the connection is made. You can also solder connect the wires and use heat shrink tubing. If the connection is not solid, it will create resistance issues in the circuit and will affect the operation of the starter circuit. The Key ON wire should be connected to any power source with the key in the ON or RUN position. I would look for a connection point on the interior fuse box. The Power VDD+ wire should be connected to any hot battery voltage wire. That is power without the key on. I suggest finding a connection point at the underhood fuse box. The GND wire should be connected to a known good ground. You cannot guess on this one. You must make sure the ground is actually ground by using an ohmmeter to verify. If the ground is weak, it will create a backfeed circuit that could damage your device and the vehicle's PCM. Don't worry about any of the other wires."

I didn't think about resistances and wire specs adulteration where the Engine or other ECU's might not like or potentially be damaged. Hoping for an open circuit somewhere. Will report back what I find and determine.

 

That's what I was thinking and more reasons why I don't. Humorous somewhat, was the man got another Prius that his woman smashed the front end somehow like a week or so later. Someone else was getting ready to haul that one away on a trailer when I arrived.

Here's a link describing an 08: Ignition Interlock | PriusChat

 

Yeah, hoping is everywhere like you said. I have a little faith being that I saw some sort of aluminum wire tags on some wires that I don't recall ever seeing those before. Albeit, I don't recall looking in that area in exacting detail ever.

Reading through a wiring diagram document and I see that:

This might be that PWM switch yellow line (pg 96 of 390):

This might be the spliced and tapped switch yellow line (pg 224 of 390):


Does that seem correct?

Also, I don't recall the Buzzer with the door open and Fob in the slot. Though the Dash Combo Meter showed the door open and Fob in the slot. I don't recall in Techstream an option where this buzzer can be turned off.

 

I'm known for "analysis paralysis," especially being an hour plus drive one way. I agree; hoping and have faith is only the obvious wires, with the mylar tags on, something.

Humorous though, I'm still reviewing all the connectors and pins. Was going to label this one, though just confirmed which is which to probe if needed. Thinking I'm done and ready.

 

That plug above in the photo is off ebay regarding the PSC ECU as I was reviewing that connection that in my mind might be a potential situation for the install. I wanted to be better able to visualize what I might be getting into. Was I way off once I removed the two vents and trim piece above and below the steering wheel and paying attention way more with plenty of daylight.

Just got back and realized all the connections were made like you said from the power distro fuse box, a.k.a. Drivers Side Junction Box. I actually was about to start removing the Dash top panel piece to get at the PSC ECU and realized most likely might be better to remove all 18 connectors to the Drivers Side Junction Box and see what's the situation and if all cuts were done there to return to stock wiring that ways. Appears was done that way already with only one of the bolts of the three present and that metal cover missing.

Observing what I can see and document today for the hour or two I spent there, cleaning mainly and draining the swamp in the back behind the wheel wells. The most concerning is the green and blue wire along with what I can't see behind that box as looks like a mylar there as well up behind. What are those and what are those green and blue genuine stock supposed to be doing, that don't look right?

There's something shiny mylar up behind the Drivers Side Junction Box, so really once I saw this I had decided remove that Box is the next chore when I find the time.


Good thing is there isn't a Brake situation, as I checked all the functions and ABS Actuator-Accumulator pumps can be heard when brake pedal is pressed and all the lights work from what I could see. Just no Buzzer or response with the Power button or in general when the Power Button is pressed. Just doesn't do anything to get into the ACC ON, IG ON or HYBRID STARTUP (READY) Operations.

Seems the smartkey functions are not working as well, so fob needs to be inserted. I did confirm the door locks work at least.

I did replace the 15A PW OUTLET FR that wasn't present, though really doesn't have anything to do with as I think that is the Cigarette outlets? Tested all the other fuses and they tested good.

 

Yes, planning to go back and pull that Drivers Side Junction Box (Driver Side J/B). Then just assess and guessing most likely reconnect all the wires.

What's this "hitch mounted hoist blessing?" You have me wondering, picture please maybe?