???? I don't know what that means..... I don't have a wiring diagram. Surely someone will post one before too long. Did you check all the fuses? Pull them out and look at them? Maybe check the "engine" one. Look at the fuse box cover to tell you where they are. You might have a fuse that looks and checks good, until amperage is applied and then it "opens". So changing it after checking wouldn't hurt....
The power for pin 16 of the OBD2 (or DLC3) comes directly from the battery through a 7.5A 'ODB' fuse. It should have battery voltage in any state. Measure for voltage at that fuse, if there is voltage I'd go straight for connector 2A (wherever that is). If there's no voltage at the fuse I would look for other fuses that should have power but don't and see if I could trace that back to the battery.
So far I've just checked the fuses for a complete circuit i.e. hearing the beep sound when I put on the black and red wire from the voltmeter. Will actually change the fuses with known good ones. Thanks for this