2006 Prius Engine Replacement

Starting this as a new thread. This is going to try to be as "Step by Step" as possible. Also so I can look back if I need to.
Everything "small" is being put in ziplock backs and being labeled with a sharpie.
Day One:
1. Start with removing battery plug and disconnect the aux battery (10 mm on the wall of the car)

2. Moved the lock of the hatchback so that it will not lock

3. Disconnect bolts holding hood and line for windshield wipers (12 mm)
Note that when I tried to replace the hood before I put a plumbing fixture in to make it easy to remove


4. Remove wiper arms (14 mm)
The double one you need to wiggle around a little to get it off.
Prying does not really work. Wiggle it

5. Remove plastic cover on windshield wiper "tray." Came off easy.
6. Disconnect the wiring harness to the wiper motor assembly and remove bolts holding motor in (10 mm)
Remove plastic clip from wiper motor "tray"
Wiper motor should come out easy

7. Remove bolts holding relay box on tray (10 mm), remove clips holding relay box to tray, and then tray on (10 mm). Should come off easy once bolts are removed.


Waiting on the electrical system to drain completely so covered engine compartment with plastic so that no water, or at least little water, gets in the engine compartment. Going to try to do just a little a day.

 

The insulation is falling off the underside of metal wiper tray where it is over the engine.
I worry about fragments falling in the spark plug openings when I am working there.
I think I can use my 2009 tray but what is the next best option?
Remove the insulation completely?

 

Day Two:
1. Removed air box. Two 10 mm screws on engine. When I last removed the air box, the hose clamps were not worth trying to reuse so replaced with new ones. If you are reusing the old ones, may need a lot of PB Blaster first. Wire harness holding the MAF sensor. Used a pick to get it loose. Spraying down the bolts / screws to the MAF sensor in hopes of replacing the screws.

2. Disconnected fuel injector and coil connectors.
3. Disconnect wire harness in front of brake fluid reservoir. I don't think it connects to it but the position

4. Unbolted, slid out intake manifold
Five bolts, all 12 mm. Sprayed them down heavily with PB Blaster. The outer ones however will need a deep socket to remove. Of note, the two hoses that go into the manifold just use butterfly type clips. The bolt on the driver's side was crazy to get to and why it took so long. Could have likely just removed the two hoses and gotten to it far easier. Also like 100 degrees outside. Ended up prying a bit with a large screwdriver to get the intake manifold off. Some wires still are attaching the intake but have not removed yet. I removed a clip holding the wire to the driver's side of a bracket on the intake manifold and then that bracket to get to the driver's side of the intake manifold. 10 mm holding bracket and royal pain to get to. What you do that is pry outward on the other side of where the hose / wire bundle is. Removed wire harness on passenger side of manifold. Carefully used need nose pliers to unlock.
Fourth image is really blurry

Stopped at that point. Covered engine with plastic and put away my tools.

A few questions
1. Using a video. Not trying to overwhelm myself by watching the whole thing. Will I be removing the fuel rail at some point? Will I want to use these fuel injectors. Not had any problems with the old ones from the 2009 but these are just rebuild. I am planning to replace the spark plugs of the replacement engine when I get there.
2. I assume that I want a new intake manifold gasket but just checking?
3. May actually be crazy but can I put the engine hoist in the back of the ranger instead of on plywood?
Thinking then once the engine is out, could just drive forward with it.