2008 Prius will NOT move + Code P0A90 Drive Motor “A” Performance

Thanks @James Analytic for your input. I assume the code may be due to the damaged wire to the motor temp sensor itself as it would cause it to not read properly. I have checked all the plugs that were involved with the trans removal itself and double checked prior to installing the inverter which has most of those plugs running underneath it and all was reconnected as it should.

Let’s hope repairing this broken plug takes care of some of the codes that are causing that red car with exclamation point.

 

Update:

Went to the junkyard, got another motor temp sensor pigtail, removed the red wire along with the connector and installed it on my existing plug. Appeared to have worked, red car with exclamation point is gone, along with it all the others except the TPMS (may be due to it having a spare tire in the rear) and the C1378 Capacitor Comm Malfunction code. I have not been able to actually drive the car as it needs an alignment after replacing all the front end suspension components. I did however mode it back and front in the driveway and appears well.

I tried to erase the C1378 code and it will NOT erase, stays as current. Any idea as to what this could be? Prior to the transaxle swap, car did NOT have any codes except for P0A90 and P0335 codes but both are gone now. I wonder if it just needs to be driven or something reset a specific way that this AP200 scanner cannot. ABS light in NOT on.

Is the this code calling out the Brake Control Power Supply? And, is this unit the black box near the 12v battery which has 1 or 2 connectors going to it?

 

Thanks for the clarification. And, yes I had to remove this unit in order to remove the battery when I did. I recall plugging it back up but just found this other post here Trouble Codes C1377 and C1378 | PriusChat and he OP mentions the unit needing to be grounded to the body so reinstalled properly I guess. What the OP does not mention in his fix is if the grounding part was the issue causing the code or the replacement of the BCPS unit.

Will check and report back. Thanks!

 

The BCPS was not plugged in, I inserted the plug and code has gone away. The one I recall moving was the box attached to the positive cable not the BCPS but glad I found it unplugged and it was not an issue with the braking system as I was alarmed it would be the ABS accumulator since I replaced it 2 years ago when I bought the car.

Car only has the TPMS light on but im almost certain its the spare tire which I should be fixing this weekend. Excited to do the 1st drive after the alignment.

 

I officially took the prius out for a drive today and I drove about 50 ft away when I pressed on the brake and heard a grinding noise. It sounded like it was coming from the middle like underneath the floor hump thad divide driver and passenger sides. If I braked gently no sound and no sound while driving only when I braked hard. I initially thought I may have left something like a tool or screwdriver underneath but no, looked under and nothing. I kept driving normally and accelerated/decelerated normally and good just that grinding sound. The best way I can describe it is like when brake pads are worn out and riding on the disc (but not my brakes). I got home and lifted the car and checked all the bolts like Subframe, brakes, struts, ball joints, trans mount and rack and pinion and all is tightened to spec and nothing seemed loose. Additionally, brakes are good with lots of life left.

The more I drove the car, the less I hear it. Now I will hear it only if I press on the brake hard to come to a stop but not if I brake normal meaning regular freeway or street MPH.

I have posted a video for you to hear it, sorry that the 1st brake you will also hear my tools fall off the seat but clearer the 2nd time I brake. Not sure if its the best sound quality but lmk and I can shoot another video - YouTube

Any Ideal what that could be?

 

@dolj The sound is Def NOT coming from the rotors, they are clean and not rusted. It is generated from what could be behind the engine at bottom. Surface rust on a rotor sound would be present at any roll and light braking, this grinding only happens at hard braking and is much more like 2 metals grinding on each other. HOWEVER, it now takes a more aggressive push on the brake to hear it. Best way to explain is, let's say the brake pedal is at 0% when NOT pressed and 100% full pressed….the noise happens if I apply pressure all the way to 75-80% and now grinding so slight even at that.

@ChapmanF I agree with the rotor grinding due to surface rust and I drove the car again as mentioned above and the more I drive the harder I have to press the brake to get it to grind. If I drive normal, the noise is NOT present at all. I exited a fwy off ramp at 65 mph and had about 100 ft to stop and applying the brakes as I would on any car will NOT make the grinding sound. A buddy of mine suggested the recently changed ATF making its way around the transaxle hence the noise beginning to decrease but, I believe I would hear grinding at other points of the drive not just braking.

Additionally, I found this info on the web about the noise CV axles could make if bad:

3. A humming or growling noise.
This can be due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint caused by a damaged or split boot. However, this symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length half shaft transaxles, or worn shaft bearings within the transaxle.

I personally did have the issue with the pass side cv axle as mentioned in one of the recent posts above, where I thought the snap ring on the inner shaft was bad but ended up being a damaged spline on the shaft that would not allow the ridges to mate when inserting it into the transaxle. I would say the noise matches the approx location of the inner axle head. Could the cv axle be the issue? I am pretty paranoid that it would be the replaced transaxle itself but hopeful due to it not making noise or is not shifting improperly. I wish I had a gopro or something to attach to the car while driving to see whats going on down there. I also read someone else said to put it on jack stands and attempt to hard brake on neutral without the wheels to see if it does this without load. I also replaced both front strut assemblies but they seem good.

 

I checked the cars suspension on both sides and removed it (brakes, rotors etc) and checked all the tie rods, ball joints and retorqued to spec and cleaned/re-greased and was able to notice that the transaxle on the driver side had play back and forth when moving the car back and forth at park. I went up top and looked behind the inverter and noticed the mount moving when force applied. Took the inverted out and sure enough 2 of the 3 nuts where lose (14mm) and the 12mmm bolt was missing so caused the transaxle to sorta move at acceleration and deceleration. I torqued to spec, test drove the car and still no change, still has the grinding noise when I practically “slam” on the brakes only and it's very short.

Still haven't resolved it and perhaps thinking that it may be the cv axle that may be causing this grinding where it goes in to transaxle and the snap ring.