This cable is kaput. The blue corrosion runs on the wire strands clear to the other end at the safety plug.
The title of this thread is "I find the cause of my problem...finally!". Can you please state what problem you are trying to fix on your Prius? Did you replace the cable, and did that fix the problem? Edit: I wanted to add additional question . Did you measure the resistance of the corroded cable?
The hybrid battery keeps getting warm and won't cool back down. The non-corroded wire measured 0.1 ohms, the corroded wire measured 0.2 ohms. If my electrical math is correct,the amount of current that wire could handle would be halved, and resistance means heat, and there's a lot of amps on that wire I'd imagine.
That's certainly part of the problem in your reconditioned hybrid battery. Better than the last blower motor "fix" (or should we say fixation?). Proof is in the pudding. I am betting more corrosion exists along with a few weak modules.
Based on the resistance measurement, I believe that the corroded wire is not the cause of your problem. You did not say if you replaced the cable with a new one yet. If you plan on replacing the cable, let me know if I am wrong, and it fixes the warm battery modules not cooling back down. I believe your problem is old weak battery modules.
When diagnosing, I always look for evidence based on previous experience of myself or others. I cannot find any evidence online of someone having a hybrid pack with a 65-75 percent capacity experiencing overheating. Even when running the blower on max through an app, the temperature rarely goes down. It almost always goes up. But I can find plenty of evidence in corrosion causing heating because resistance=heat. I worked on a buddy's car where the alternator was not charging, at all, it's main cable looked similar to the high voltage cable I showed you, with corrosion running up through the copper wire. I have a new one on the way from the dealership.
Sometimes, up to over a hundred amps, for rare brief moments at a time. Rarely more than ten or twenty for any sustained period. You don't give much detail on how you measured the 0.1 or 0.2 Ω. If with a typical multimeter, that's down in the range where even if you were careful to measure your test leads first and subtract that, you're still as likely to be seeing effects of your meter resolution and measurement technique as differences in the wire. There are instruments made for taking such measurements, but not in everybody's tool set.
