I started pulling the fuel tank on my '07 today, to replace the charcoal canister. The two lines that have refused to budge are lines that need some kind of tool shoved into the joint to release them. I've got a set of Lisle line releasers but try as I might, the lines won't come off. Are there any videos showing how to separate those lines?
The front fuel line has a side button to push but I didn't see such a design on the rear EVAP lines to the canister...I'll look again
I need to replace mine. A mechanic friend jacked my car up, took off some kind of plastic inside my left rear fender area and we could see the canister right in front of us. I could reach out and touch it. He told me he could do the job without pulling the tank. How much effort was it to pull the tank? Did you have it up on a lift? Thank you, ebm
I found the side buttons to release the lines...now the tank is hanging down...anyone who says that you don't have to pull the exhaust system to get the tank out....hasn't done the job, laying on their back with the rear tires on ramps...maybe its doable on a lift but it'll be a lot easier with the exhaust out of the way.
Tank is out...and I had to drop the exhaust. Now it looks like the Vapor separator 77730-47030 is a more likely culprit for codes rather than the charcoal canister. Using a smoke generator into the tank, smoke comes out the intake pipe of the unit. I believe the valve is stuck open. Anyone ever pull one of these units and test it?
What codes do you have and what testing have you performed? That part # is for the "trap canister with outlet valve" - the valve is actually the leak detection pump assembly. The inlet "fitting" is the vent for the fuel tank - evap system and is normally supposed to be open. The pump "seals" the inlet when the ECM commands the vent solenoid shut and turns on the pump to check for leaks. The system leak test has two thresholds - a 0.040" leak and a 0.020" leak. My experience is that most smoke machines are marginally effective below around 0.025" leaks (ie, I can't see the smoke, but it leaks enough to set a P0456 small leak code). I often have to spray soapy water on components with the smoke machine pressurizing the system. Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
Since you have it down and out; I probably just replace it - rather than test it. It could just be intermittent and works when dry. No gas clogging it when you overfill. As long as it doesn't cost an arm and a leg; weight against doing this job again if you get this failure again.... You got almost 20 years out of that old one. YMMV
Here are smoke tests of the charcoal canister and the vapor separator. I don't know if these prove anything definitive but I'm most concerned with the vapor pump. Should smoke be going thru with no power connection? I did connect power, briefly, to the unit and it did sound like it was running the small pump.
The previous owner ran the car for over two years with EVAP codes. 441,446,455, I believe. I smoke tested the fuel filler cap and it held smoke. I replaced the separator valve at the canister with no change. At this point I have a new charcoal canister but don't want to re-install the tank if that testing pump is bad.
You need to find out if the valve is in the normally open or closed position, without power going to it. It's really a moot point, since you can't pass smog, register it, or buy insurance to legally run it on Ca roads. FWIW; the responsibility for the car passing smog is on the previous owner - unless you bought the car as a "parts car". Even on an as-is sales and private party in Ca - brakes and smog are expected to functioning properly. It's a public safety thing..... You should be able to find it in the Ca. vehicle codes....
exactly what I trying to find out...normally open or normally closed, without power...yes, it will be a parts car if I can't get it to pass smog test...