Wrapping stock intake with tinfoil bubble and then heat resistant wrap?

I’ve been playing with the fan speeds with the cabin air temp set to HI (highest heat), no recirc, no AC with air positions to feet and windshield and noticed two bars of fan speed (second fan speed) is enough to help dissipate (vent or exhaust) the engine bay heat through the cabins and not cook your feet at a stop light. Goes from 188-190 to 182-184 in less than 30 seconds like that instead of sitting at 188-190 the whole time at the stop light. I’m still going to go through with my gold wrap measures to combat heat soak in general along with thicker insulating tubing for radiator and coolant lines than the stock insulation they put on it, even cold wrap sections of the new insulation tubes where the engine is facing them.

 

HPS Silicone Radiator Coolant Hose Kits Heater Intercooler Turbo Tagged "Prius" - HPS Performance

Eh?

 

I like blue matches the Hybrid blue accents.

 

As expected, decreased heat soak temps from stop light to stop light driving especially in combination with cabin exhaust method with the fan speed to 2 notches. Took an hour or two to take out the intake assembly and cut out a hundred jigsaw pieces of the reflect a gold tape to cover the whole underside of the assembly, left the top of it alone because it’s a porous plastic material and can see it not adhering correctly with the tape but mostly because most the engine heat radiates from under there.

 

I ended up not using the bubble wrap tinfoil stuff, only used the reflect-a-gold DEI tape on the complete underside of the air intake assembly for obvious reasons. Yes a small gain is still a gain when it comes to lowering heat soak temps. Even at highway driving speeds I noticed decreased temps albeit 1-2 degree lowered difference. The bubble wrap stuff I’m still theorizing where or on what that could be used best, it also deals with condensation so could use for those type of applications as well.

 

Havent seen it rise to 195 degrees post acceleration from a heat soaked idling stop light condition since the gold wrap was put on nor have I seen that temp on highway driving when I normally have during the same strips of highway, of course in addition with the cabin exhaust measure it can drop as low as 173 degrees within the time it takes the light to go green from the time of stopping when it turned red. (Usually 30 seconds or less unless you have an unfriendly intersection light that takes minutes to give you the right of way then you’re looking at it going as low as 150 degrees in that time).

 

I mean I do and have been looking at the scan gauge coolant temp right above my steering wheel base quite a lot for the past two weeks ever since noticing how high the highest temp would get after a heat soak stop post acceleration at a red light and noticed it sat at 190 at the lights, but that initial observation of mine is probably because I didn’t have regen braking then and still today I don’t so the engine was probably working harder and showing higher temps then what I’ve usually seen in the past two years owning it now. Yet still with no regen braking I’m still seeing lower temps at certain checkpoints (conditions when I usually check and stare at the scan gauge for 5 seconds at a time or until temps fluctuate), I don’t think the battery is magically back to its regen braking health state so that variable is excluded.

 

Yes I did, on accident left it off when going on a highway after a door dash delivery (was door dashing for 3 hours after the wrap) noticed it didn’t reach to 193-195 zone on the 0-65 acceleration to merge onto the highway from an already warm and running engine. Only time it reached 193 was when speeding up to 70 from 60 to see what efficiency was like at those speeds, dropped to 191 after cruising at 70 less than a minute. Getting a stable 188 at 67mph with 50mpg. Outside temperatures were 80 and humid (Minnesota).

 

No I didn’t want to change more than one variable for the data.

In order to get my regen braking back (which is actually a variable in heat soak temps) I have to muster up the confidence to dissemble the rear wheel well plastic housing and remove the old ABS wheel speed sensor pigtail and put the new one in which my mechanic friend said there is soldering involved. Is this true?