Oil Catch Can, Eliminate that knock!

I inspected the staus of the hoses and replaced the splicers with plastic barbed ones , I believe the melting point of the splicers is 160 °C, question is how hot will it get in there.

The hoses provided with the occ kit are choked, without wire mesh and too thin, my advise is to discard them and not waste your time with it.

The new hoses are advertised as heat and oil resistant up to 240 °c, they are thicker and have a wire mesh which helps not to choke, they are 5 euro per meter on aliexpress.

I ordered stainless steel splicers, they were advertised as 8 mm, but they actually were 7.3 mm, so too small, I returned them and ordered new 9mm brass ones.

I also had some 9mm plastic splicers around so I'm using them until the brass ones arrive.

At the same time I replaced the intake gasked.
It was about 4 euro on aliexpress.

 

Wondering if geographical location changes severity or likelihood of issues

 

Not really. It’s the weak pressure for the piston rings and lack of large enough ports on the piston
for the oil to distribute out.
Also, doing 10,000 miles oil changes makes it worse. So some say.
Also, driving in the city with stop/go driving, the engine is on an off a lot.
Highway drivers have less of an issue because the engine is running constantly.

 

Which issue in particular?

For the steady delivery of oil to the intake manifold via PCV, the location of the PCV input might be a factor. Gen 2 took it only from the valve cover if I’m not mistaken. On Gen 3 it mostly from the block, feeds into intake manifold, just below throttle body. There’s also a hose from valve cover to engine air intake (downstream of filter, upstream of throttle body); it doesn’t seem to do much, and no evidence of oil.

I don’t think geographical location matters, for the PCV oil dump anyway.

 

me
My PCV rubber hose is clean, but there is a spoonful of oil under the throttle.
I try to understand that the crankcase is positive pressure ventilation and the valve cover is negative pressure.
1 Cold start will spray a lot of gasoline
2 Ethanol gasoline
3 Oil evaporation Oil quality is also critical
4 Blowby
5 Frequent start-stop in the city or too short daily driving distance is not conducive to evaporation

 

Is this a question, comment or tutorial?

 

Toyota Prius 2010-2015 Aluminum Oil Catch Can Bracket




This is an aluminum version of the headlight bracket so no need to worry about the 3d printed plastic version cracking under heat temperatures.

 

dang, 45$… pricey, I’m glad the 3d printed oil catch can I got from danlatu still holds up.

 

Just use some of your YouTube $$$ with your 84.5k Subscribers JK

This is a high grade aluminum bracket that was cut from a square aluminum piece. Due to tariff Prices going up this is the lowest that they can offer.

Can you post a picture of your 3d printed bracket that was installed 7 years ago? Just curious to see if the plastic mount did not get warped from all the heat from the engine bay.

 

Yeah it’s not warped from the heat, it’s just dry. I’m sure that aluminum piece is of high quality, but the 3d printed piece is still good after all this time. I’ll take a picture of it when I do my next oil change.

 

Less than $1 to 3d print it. And they make different types of filament that will hold up against
the heat.
And where it's placed, you have cooler air blowing over it....

 

you know, just for that, I might order one from you so I can send my subscribers to the place to buy the bracket.

 

Maybe it’s California weather? Last 4 we replaced looked pretty bad. Not as bad as the ‘Mike 2&$’ brace we saw on a car last week Inside PC joke

 

It’s possible, it all depends on the driver . The aluminum definitely would blend in well with the engine bay.

 

It’s appropriate for one particular location.

I chose another location, mounted atop lower cross beam. This is the first, for single can:



I subsequently went to 2 cans, similar bracket wider upstanding leg obviously. You can just see it:



for anyone considering this: that beam flexes when the front jacking point is used, so you want a compressible gasket between bracket and beam.

 

Id like to see those brackets in CA visual inspections!

 

Raytheeagle and I went with a corn can that uses a can opener to open. we drilled holes on the can and zip
Ties and strapped it to the beam. Put the catch can inside the can and I drove off, still holding it down since 2018

 

We got some creative people in here lol.

 

Easy, just temporarily remove can and bracket, push pex style 3/8” splicer (easier to remove than barb) between the 2 loose hose ends, tuck it all down where the sun don’t shine.