...and will it fit exactly or do you need to pop the bearing out to put in the existing hub-assembly? 2 Questions: I have a 2 Prius a driver and a parts car. Instead of pulling out the bearing on the parts car (which was replaced right before it was totalled in an accident) i was thinking of replacing the entire hub-assembly on the arm as it might be easier. Is this a viable option? However currently I am having a really hard time getting this 19mm nut removed. I have tried using leverage, WD40 lubricant overnight, etc. to remove it but it hasn't budged. I have someone tentatively scheduled to help me tomorrow and they need to know which is better as they need to get a impact wrench. Will a torch flame do it or will a impact wrench remove it or other suggestion?
Air impact or electric impact should do. Is this a photo of the good parts knuckle/hub? You're missing some lug studs bud.
No this is the partscar. I've managed to remove every nut except the one pictured. The driver Prius is complete but not sure if the fit will be 1-to-1 because of driving/wear/etc. on the partcar wheel-hub.
This kind of depends on just what you're calling "the entire hub-assembly". "Hub-bearing assembly" is, in fact, a real term, and it refers to all of what's shaded light-blue on the left here: If that's what you're using "hub-assembly" to mean, then yes, the entire thing is what you swap; it isn't made to be pressed apart into smaller pieces. (Sometimes they can be, but they're not meant to be. You can see how the exact one drawn in that picture wouldn't press apart at all. Some aftermarket ones are more like ordinary bearings pressed into flanges.) But maybe you're using "hub-assembly" to mean the whole larger casting with the connections to the shock absorber and steering linkage? The real term for that larger casting is the "knuckle". If you have access to a good knuckle with a good hub-bearing assembly in it, then yes, you could just swap the knuckle. Reassemble following the instructions and torques carefully, and get the alignment checked when you're done. An impact wrench should get the nut loose.
Yes. thank you. I mean the knuckle that is attached to the shock/control arm. Hopefully if I can just swap the knuckle over it will be sufficient.
Big aluminum thong yes that19 mm requires a breaker bar and back up wrench hold wrench step on breaker see YouTube for the moves it real easy no straining unbolt lower ball joint at the two bolts one nut mounting point on lower arm and transfer it . Easy job
I had to use a 19mm breaker bar and an impact wrench to get mine off. PB Blaster works well for helping break rusted sections
I've tried that. I used a 3ft breaker bar...damn thing won't move. Also I plan on replacing the axle as long as I am replacing the bearing (the boot has long worn out and I already have a spare axle ready to install). Any tips for axle removal/installation? I've watched videos but the last time I did this it took me forever and the car shifted while my legs were underneath it (I was trying to get that lock-ring lined up with using force)...thats what shook the vehicle. Thanks. I've done that but haven't tried PB Blaster yet only WD40. Hopefully an impact wrench will do it tomorrow as I've tried everything manually.
Yes my 450 ft lbs DeWalt gun . I'm absolutely shocked at 3 ft bar with your weight on it and so on . So you're in rust hale you know when Western Massachusetts it was an uncommon to just take the die grinder whack off either side nut or head push thru . No it don't damage it ya whack it off real thin just smack it thru
All I know is the first thing I thought about this morning when I woke up was using a short 19mm wrench and then using a hydraulic foot carjack to get under it and raise the nut to loosen it. It didn't work. I can see why though. when looking at the other top bolt that I removed it is corroded and rusted in the threads and I imagine the lower bolt is even worse.
I'm not a physicist, nor do I portray one on television, but it seems to me impact guns have an intrinsic advantage over hand-wrenches: they hit holts/nuts extremely hard/fast/repeatedly, taking advantage of inertia. Another trick you can is rock to rock them back and forth between loosen-tighten, just little blips of each.
tried already rocking back and forth. I hate when working on a car ONE SINGLE THING keeps you from progressing. This driver Prius has around 340K btw. Whenever I get blocked I always have to wonder about the entirety of my life decisions (like I read recently someone bought bitcoin BTC for 50K back in 2011 and recently sold it for over 9B). I've told myself if I win the lottery I'm gonna get rid of all my Gen2s (I have 3) and buy the new 2025 Prius....repair costs be damned! Anyways, although I prefer to not bother anyone to help me...I've asked someone to procure a impact wrench for Saturday. However, I was really hoping I could do it myself and tell him not to worry about it. I'm also gonna install a replacement axle on the passenger side. I've done this before but had a very difficult time...any tips on axle replacement that isn't on youtube. Specifically, getting the lock-ring to stick.
I have some sockets that will grab the bolt and will allow me to break it and then the shaft n nut push thru . I've s torch last resort grinders next I love that thing. I know too many tools but they're used for so many things that's why we have .
Never had the "pleasure", but I seem to recall some YouTube guy (in a rust-belt muffler shop?) using an angle grinder to make a notch in the corner/side of a rusted nut or bolt-head, then settling a cold chisel into the notch (angled counterclockwise) and giving it a few good whacks with a small sledge hammer
I Dremeled through a large, not-very-accessible nut on the frame of an old Bronco II once. Took roughly forever, but once it was cut into deeply enough I could split it off the bolt.
Now they have cutting wheels for your Dremel that will almost rival your air tools . Usually I can just break the head off the boat wumpin on it w 3 ft. I mean those bolts right there are pretty good bolts even rusted so they pretty tough .
UPDATE: Still couldn't get nut off. We went to the auto-store, got a nut-cutter....and then the nut-cutter failed and the tip broke off. This is literally a tough nut to crack (bad joke and not funny either) Next up.... a 19mm/half-inch EXTRACTOR-socket ordered from Amazon. i don't have high-hopes though. Are products like PB blaster penetrating oil worth it? I have a feeling it isn't much more effective than WD40 but I need to get this NEW wheel-bearing off that was installed only 5 months before the partsPrius was totalled. BTW: So why not just buy another wheel-bearing and forget about the partscar bearing?...yes i know this is foolish but it is inline with the notion of having spare-Prius for parts in your backyard (many people think this is particularly odd behaviour)
Particularly odd behavior I have 3 down in the bottom of property plenty parts . I've shipped some all over the world
