This is in regards to that 3 port water valve which gets replaced so much. MANY are bought but are not OEM but chinese knockoffs. Some may be Dorman as well. But the point is that many non OEM valves will fail with the P1121 again as did the original valve replaced. I had the same problem with which the Amazon bought valve lasted 2 month until the P1121 lite up again. Taking apart the original OEM valve the big gear within is very stiff even if drowned in WD40. I was stumped as to how you take that cover off to reveal the valve ports within. I see YouTube video on how someone did just do that....he had to cut the outer portion of the valve as well as cut the lower portion to free up the gear cover to show the ports and their sealing technology. My question is: HAS anyone been able to take that port cover off without saw zaw in hand ?
While I can confirm that one time I installed an aftermarket one 5 years ago that recently failed, but for the most part the lowest priced non-OEM ones I installed are not much different in terms of reliability.
Now hold on a sec do the fake valve look different? I just undo screws remove gear leave out set the door to mid way . I don't think I had to glue it. I just move it and it stayed. Now gear is not they're to move door in valve it thinks it moved the door it's plugged in and the call for door move is made I'm sure . But no move happens . I have pics I think
View attachment 278885 The after market valves look the same as the Toyota Genuine valves EXCEPT the "DENSO" stamped on the valve which denotes its made by Toyota as in Nippon Denso co. The others are all blank in that area. What I'm talking about is you remove the drive worm gear and pull off the giant gear. NOW can you pull up on the plastic spindle of the plastic gear to remove the cover of the ports and valves ? I mean you can see that its a cover as by the drive motor the plastic covers over part of the motor. But it looks like a press fit as prying with a screw driver does not work. But I am doing this as a curious retired mechanic as I like to explore about how things are assembles and work. I probably have to destroy it in order to take it apart LOL!
At this moment I erased by engine codes two days a go but the codes have not come back...but then I'm thinking...even though its HOT in southwest utah.....I ran the car with the AC off. Now I'm wondering....if I turn the AC on does that make the ECM want to command the valve to rotate..and if the valve defect not send the right value the code will come on ? I guess the drive gear could rotate the wheel but if the sensor detecting the position of the valve could also cause the error code. I probably have to resort to changing out the valve and to buy from Toyota....I have a Maxjak hoist at home so the job is not bad but still.....they say the 2nd time around I should cut my time easily by half !!
youtube.com/watch?v=VOKLLRW3Jc8 YouTube video on how one person cut the valve to reveal the valving scheme mechanism which is NOT easy to get to as witnessed the hacksaw cuts at 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock on the main body of valve.
I don't get the need to cut the valve I justtook out gear moved shaft to midway point and left it . What's the point of cutting everything open what we wanna see ?
I'm curious as to what is the cause to make the gear rotation so harsh. Is it the seals. the outside cylinder wall or the center pivot seal ? OR its all of the above ?? Obviosly it was not made to be serviced witnessed by the construction of the inner port chamber supposedly just pressed in but its in there good. As I said before...I am curious to what made it so stiff to turn. hey maybe it just needs some zerk fitting(s) screwed in to keep it free to rotate.
I've no idea mine moves smooth as butter when I sit there and turn the gear by hand you know the one connected to motor . I thot twas electrical . My idea 1/3 the valve diverter. Leave gear out reinstall . See if it comes . I know it will work . Not sure about setting codes this way . Leaving it set as such shouldn't affect anything really
What I understand about HOW it works is that when the ECM commands the valve to rotate their is a sensor on the big gear which reads the angle of the valve. If the big gear is stuck the vaue would stay constant. The ECM detects this and attempts many times to command it to change....when a certain time elapses the ENGINE CODE is posted and the ECM will attempt no more to command it to rotate.
Oh well like I say Ive not installed my concern is flow is constant and no blown engine etc . The code I would know is just the business can't find its position I don't care . It should not stop the car from running this code never does
Your strategy makes complete sense to me. Read on the internet that some codes should have no concern. P1116 says that it may affect emissions but if you live in an area where you have no smog inspection it is of no concern which is good to know. I live in one of those counties which has no smog tests.
If you're somewhere with smog you can't have any lights on that I know so one would have to fix the coolant valve issue . To get light off that's how they gotcha . I live with none that .
Thanks... It's always been said on here that these pumps have a sensor that wears out and fails and that's what creates that floppy disk hard drive sound of a bad pump. But that video makes me think that dirt and debris is more likely the problem. I wonder if @ChapmanF or someone else on here has any thoughts on why we've always been told that its a sensor rather than dirt and debris causing this valve to fail?
Many reported failures have been of the type where the valve constantly hunts back and forth, making a washing-machine or floppy-disk-drive kind of sound. That's a sensor issue, the same as when an HVAC servo is hunting back and forth (or, for those who remember gen 1, the power steering ). And of course, when it fails that way, the valve isn't stuck; it's able to hunt back and forth. On the other hand, I don't think anyone ever said there was only one possible way a part can fail.
I'd like to find out whether the drive motor inside the water control valve rotates in both directions or always in the same direction. I do know this motor is a very small DC motor with brushes. It has multiple stages of gear reduction. Therefore the motor itself turns much faster than the rotational speed of the water valve itself. There is another DC motor with brushes which is also part of the coolant heat recovery system. This pump is located a couple of inches away from the valve. It is powered by a DC motor with brushes. It's important to be aware that this pump for the coolant heat recovery system is not the "inverter coolant pump." Both pumps are located near the driver's side fender. And both make a soft whining sound while running. An important difference between these two pumps is that the inverter coolant pump runs all the time when the car is in IGN or RDY mode. In contrast the coolant heat storage pump runs only for a short period after the car is started (by putting it into RDY). It also runs shortly after the car is turned OFF. Running time for either mode (starting the car or turning off the car) is less than 30 seconds. My 2005 Prius still has its original coolant heat recovery valve and pump. I suspect my water control valve might have an issue, although no fault codes have been posted for the coolant system. I suspect a fault because the pump motor only runs occasionally. In cool weather this pump always operated when turning off the car after driving it. But in my car it certainly does not operate as frequently as it did in the past. I've determined there's nothing at all wrong with the pump itself. My theory is the control ECU won't run the pump until after it receives the correct signal from the switch inside the water valve. So if the switch is flaky or the water valve is stuck, then the pump doesn't run. I'm thinking of changing out the water valve to see if that makes any difference. Also then I can disassemble the old pump in order to identify what failed. I always like to find out why things fail.
I use that heat recovery pump from another car as a inverter pump in one car 5 yrs now that car still has chs tank and system running correctly . Just put voltage to coolant 3 way valve cover off and watch maybe .
