I have a 2013 Prius with 270K miles. I have done the EGR cleaning, Intake Manifold, Hybrid battery fan, replaced the PCV valve, and changed the 12V battery. I also changed the spark plugs and the coils last year. The MPG Indicator in the car is inconsistent. For example, when I'm coasting, it should go all the up to 100, but several times it hovers around 50. I thought that it might be because it an older car and needs to warm up when I start driving, but it happens at all different times during the drive. I do have an oil burning issue and have been adding oil when needed...is it possible, this issue has gotten worse over the past two years and now this is the new norm? When I cleaned the Hybrid battery fan about a month ago, the total range went up from 430s to 490s. Since then, every time I fill up with gas, it has come down and is back down to 430s. My driving is not so different that the driving style should affect range that much. I'm all out of ideas on what I should do. Anybody have any suggestions? Raj.
It's a mathematical predictive algorithm based on the car's sensor data. If you want REAL data; you'll need to do manual calculations at every fill-up. The estimates are usually very optimistic vs real world. YMMV
Thanks for the reply. I used to keep track of manual calculations during the time of the cleaning to see how much of a difference it made. During that time, the range did go from 380s at the lowest to 490s a month ago. I figured that since it went down to 430s, something must have happened and was curious what I could do. I may end up doing manual calculations, but thought others might have some suggestions as to what I could do to bring the indicated range...at least to the 470s. Raj.
What kind of tires do you have? Do you fill up at different pumps? They all stop at different points, so you'll get different reading. What is your average MPG? They distance thing is just a guess. Have you replaced the head gasket yet? Have you reconditioned the hybrid battery? Has it been changed? The prolong system will do a good job of reconditioning it.
when you are coasting, the engine may still be running. it doesn't always shut down, even on new cars
I have all season tires which were replaced about a year ago. I usually fill up at the same station...the one closest to my home. I stopped checking the ave mpg after doing it for several months since there was no change. The range went up after cleaning the hybrid battery fan and since it came back down, figured I'd ask about it. I have not replaced the HeadGasket...how would I know for sure that is necessary? I didn't know about battery reconditioning and have not changed it. How do I know if that needs to be done? Is there a check that I can do or a shop that can do that will show the battery is the problem?
True, but my history is that the indicator shoots up to the top and since it has consistently not done it, figured there might be a problem and wanted to ask what I could to. Thanks.
wish it was seasonal, but this has been going on since the winter so I wanted to ask if there might be a problem so I can take care of it. Thanks.
Have you cleaned the EGR system? If you've never cleaned it, it is very likely clogged which doesn't allow proper air flow, and exhaust flow. Have you replaced the spark plugs? If so, did you get them from ebay or amazon? Then they are likely cheap chinese copies and are failing. Check tire pressures, and tires, when the tread starts thinning, mileage seems to suffer for some. There are several factors involved. Without really seeing what's happening, it's hard to tell what the issue might be.
I did clean the EGR system including the Intake Manifold, and changed the pcv valve...it brought the range up from the 380s to 420s. I replaced the spark plugs as well...from a reputable shop...def not amazon or ebay. Tires are relatively new...1 year old.
How long have you had it? Likely its first EGR cleaning? your model year has the low-friction piston rings, which are more-or-less doomed to commence oil consumption. Fix is either to replace pistons/rings (see attached), or a new short block (will have revised pistons/rings). head gasket failure usually manifests as a hard shake during cold starts, due to coolant seeping past head gasket into cylinder(s). <<<attachments loaded now>>>
Hi Mendel, The burning issue has been going on for at least three years. I am one of those who did the 10K oil changes and was told by the dealership and the local shops that everything was fine (even though it wasn't) and then when I asked for a complete check due to mileage was told about the oil burning issue. Since then, I have kept track of the oil level and added it when necessary. As you can read in the original post, I did do several cleanings/changes. At this point I'm out of ideas so I thought I should ask for suggestions. Do you think I should get the HeadGasket checked or the Hybrid battery checked/reconditioned? Thanks.
You’ve had it for three years, or? what’s the current rate of oil consumption? presumably first EGR cleaning? it’s a little surprising your head gasket has not let go. Typical symptom is hard shake on cold-starts, due to coolant in cylinder. Borescope inspection is usual diagnostic. Excessive oil consumption may be due in part to 10k mile oil change, but the inherent inadequacies of the low-friction piston rings spec’d by Toyota are the main cause.
Had it since 2013...just knew about the oil burning three years ago. Was repeatedly told I was worrying about nothing by different shops...until all the problems appeared. Don't know current, but it was 1Qt per 1500/2000 miles. Yes, the EGR cleaning was the first...it was massively dirty and painful to go through the entire process. I don't have hard shake on cold starts...though I did have it a few times almost two years ago...that is when I went down the rabbit hole of cleaning the egr system and other such things. Will probably get the HeadGasket checked just to be sure that isn't the problem. Thanks.
I don't understand what the 200-400's means.... Do you mean the range???? MPG is more accurate. Actually, not car computed. It's the TYPE of tires. If they are not LLR (LRR?) tires, that will certainly mess up your mpg. Sorry I missed that you changed the plugs... You should put the original coils back on, they are better unless you bought them from Toyota. You might want to pull the plugs and check them, they should pretty much look new.
First your focus on mpg and range may be masking the two obvious high priority causes a) weak hybrid battery and b) excessive oil burning clogging up everything. A 13 year old hybrid battery at 270k miles is begging and pleading for relief. A weak hv battery will easily reduce mpg by 5 mpg or more regardless of any other factors such as high speed driving and hard braking minimizing regen. A weak hv battery will keep the engine running when it should be off such as coasting or going downhill. This will reduce instantaneous mpg (a largely worthless metric) and eventually progress to engine restarts at traffic lights and weak acceleration. You are due for a new hv battery unless you intend to get rid of the car in a few months. Excessive oil burning. I think Burning Man festival is going on right now; maybe they need a highest gen3 oil burning event as well. Your quart per 1500 miles is probably a quart every 1000 miles now. Enough to qualify for a free piston and ring upgrade Toyota offered through the Powertrain warranty 60k miles. They knew it by 2013 and fixed it in mid 2014. Many many cars were repaired free ten years ago. Why not just keep dumping oil into it? Next casualty will be the catalytic converter fail from oil contamination. $2k part plus install. Traditionally Virginia was a CARB state with oem requirements; however you might get away with aftermarket cats now. These days, gen3 engine replacements are a cottage industry for small hybrid shops throughout the country. Rebuilt is preferred or JDM rather than used salvage or a too little too late piston/ring job at 270k. So if you want to keep this car for years you should immediately budget a new oem nimh battery ($2500 installed if you shop) and start a savings account for a replacement engine within a year. Maybe $3200 plus shipping and install for the best rebuilt or $1k plus install for JDM which may be available locally. Clearly most would drive it as is until it hits a financial wall; if that is you, I would shop now when you could still get a few grand in a private sale for the 2013 as is. PS: I did not forget about the $2400 brake booster plus install. Just did not want to pile on. You could get lucky and miss this one.
