2009 Prius - Issues - Florida Mechanic?

Home - Tampa Hybrids Inc. has been used by many here in the past.

 

Some of those codes occured long ago and it'd be better to focus on the codes that return. Basically if you buy one of these $20 devices: www.ebay.com/itm/265484403768 you can use it to connect to your phone and read and clear error codes, via Dr Prius app, Car Scanner (ELM) app and others. That way you don't have to pay the mechanic to do this. Also these easy to use devices can sometimes be the difference between making it home as planned or being stuck on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck.

And once you start sending us screenshots of the error codes that return we can walk your through all the options that come up when deciding to repair or not to repair or how to repair.

 

The hybrid battery may need to be replaced but I've seen them as cheap as $1,400 while the average is around $2,000 so, if everything else is okay, may be worth the investment to keep her running!!! (New and even used vehicles, these days, have insane prices.)

 

Seems none of those error codes pointing to hybrid battery? is there any corrosion in the 12V battery connection ?

 

Nope you're probably in good shape for another 10 years actually . Batteries do get replaced but if lasted long enough some one mite replace thee car

 

None of the codes implicate the hybrid vehicle (HV) battery.

P1116 is telling you about the temperature sensor on the outlet side of the CHRS (coolant heat recovery system) tank.
P0A0F is telling you that the engine was unable to start. One possible cause is running out of fuel.
C0200 is telling you about a problem with the RH speed sensor circuit.
C0205 is telling you about a problem with the LH speed sensor circuit.
For both of these codes, there are 12 sub-codes (aka detail codes or INF codes). These are found in the freeze frame data and would be helpful to narrow down the area of concern.

C1241 is telling you about a problem with the power source voltage arriving at the skid control ECU. It could be abnormally high or abnormally low. Checking the 12-volt system to make sure it is delivering voltage in the 10.5 to 14.4 volt range would be reasonable. If that is okay, working out why either the voltage arriving at the skid control ECU dropped or the voltage for the ABS NO. 1, ABS NO. 2 relay operation dropped, is next on the list.

There is nothing big in all these codes, just methodical troubleshooting until you find the problem.

Having recorded these DTCs, you should have your mechanic clear all codes and see which, if any, return and focus on those.