car wont start-all dash lights on-please help

11.6v is NOT good for the 12v battery. 12.5 is marginal.
Get an AGM 5 volt or less charger and charge the 12v battery for at LEAST 4 hours, 8 is better.
Or until the charger says the battery is full.
How old is the 12v battery? It may need replacing.

A weak or old 12v battery will cause all sorts of issues with the hybrid battery system.
Because it is not seeing what it needs to see because the 12v battery cannot supply enough
voltage/amperage to run the computers correctly.

After you have a FULL charge on the 12v battery, or you've replaced it with a new on, and charged the
new one that is very likely weak from sitting, clear the codes. Turn the car off for a minute, then
try to start it again.

 

Are those screenshots from CReader? I'm disappointed that they only show code descriptions and not the actual codes. Is there a way you can get it to show the codes?

Some of the codes we see often enough to recognize anyway. The "High Voltage System Interlock Circuit High" is definitely P0A0D, for example. The "HV/EV Control System Regenerative Malfunction" and "HV/EV System Malfunction" are probably C1259 and C1310 (or the other way around, which doesn't matter much 'cause they're usually together and mean pretty much the same thing).

But it's always better to be sure the actual codes are in your post, so it doesn't start off as a flash-card quiz for the people trying to help you.

The C1259 and C1310 don't mean anything you have to worry about with the brakes. Those codes are just the brake system telling you it knows there are hybrid-system codes. (It has to know that, because to do regen the brake system has to depend on the hybrid system doing its part.) Those codes will go away once you've got the hybrid-system codes dealt with.

At what place in the story did that happen? Disturbing that plug is the most common way people give themselves a P0A0D code. That's not a code that often pops up unprovoked.

 

See post #2

 

Remove the orange safety interlock plug and reinstall it per the directions below.
There are three steps to install the orange safely plug.
1. Insert the plug into the socket.
2. Flip the lever of the plug.
3. Slide the lever. This last step is something not completed, which will cause the code.
Here is a diagram from a Gen 2 Prius.
View attachment 272365

 

The problem with the car is not the 12v battery! See post #7.

 

The car doesn't have to be driven, but it must be in the READY state (where you see the word READY in green on the instrument cluster). When the car's off (or ACC or IG ON, any state besides READY), the high voltage battery is completely isolated so there is no power to that step-down converter.

 

Carefully remove the safety plug, then carefully reinstall it, one step at a time.
It is fairly easy to not do it correctly. Even though it seems to be done correctly, it might not
be seated correctly.
Do each step carefully. Doesn't hurt to give it a try.

Wait for the battery to charge up. After removing the charger, the voltage will go down and level off.
OR should level off. Wait 5-10 minutes after removing the charger before trying to start the car.

Clear the codes FIRST. Do not depress the brake pedal when pressing the start button.
Clear the codes, then turn the car off. Then depress the brake pedal, and press the start button.

Try not to panic. Do the simple things first, ONE AT A TIME. If you do several things, you won't know what
the problem was.

 

Right, there is nothing in the service plug itself that turns on or off. The two large, current-carrying contacts are always shorted (through the fuse that is inside the plug), and the two very small safety-interlock contacts are also always shorted.

When you fully seat the service plug and then slide the lever sideways, you are making those shorted very small safety-interlock contacts plug into the very small terminals at the side of the socket, completing the safety-interlock circuit that is the subject of the P0A0D code.

I'm inclined to agree with Brian1954 that the 12-volt battery doesn't seem a likely suspect here. The Toyota manuals are clear in what they recommend you check before proceeding with diagnosis; they have frequent and consistent instructions like this one:



Of course charging the battery isn't going to hurt, but the idea that some even higher voltage is needed or the ECUs will give trouble codes that don't mean what they mean is an idea that my experience hasn't borne out.

 

If you still have the P0A0D code, I can guarantee the car won't be going READY until that is dealt with, no matter how many other things get looked at.


It would be kind of a distraction right now to be looking at the voltage arriving at the inverter. (It'll be zero, anyway, until you have satisfied the car it is safe to go READY.)

But if you ever are interested in looking at that, for curiosity's sake perhaps, and you have a scan tool that can show live data, you don't need to poke around under the inverter covers. The live-data item "VL—Voltage before Boosting" is what arrives at the inverter from the battery, and the item "VH—Voltage after Boosting" shows what the boost converter is raising it to at the present moment.

 

Did you clear the codes????

 

The code P0A0D does not have anything to do with the IPM module.

Did you do all three steps shown in post #7 when you reinstalled the safety interlock plug?