We use Walmart milk but I notice the freshness dates vary widely by store location. Unfortunately our closest one always has poor dates. Since Walmart has stated the milk is hormone free, I am surprised at the long expire dates. I think the milk I bought on Thursday expires Dec 19.
No. Milk shelf life mostly a function of how it is pasteurized. UHT(ultra high temp) will last longer. More likely to see it used for creams than milk in the US. Parmalat and Costco's organic milk use UHT. Sealed UHT milk can be stored at room temp, but that weirds out US consumers. HT-ST(high temp, short) is how most milk is pasteurized in the US. Or it was, I haven't kept track of what the biz does. For completeness, LT-LT(low temp, long time) is the pasteurization method you can do on the stove top. It's a batch process that can take up to an hour. The others are continuous. Microfiltered milk might last longer than pasteurized. There are naturally occurring preservatives in milk that pasteurization destroys. It alone isn't allowed by US law.
I think the homogenisation affects shelf life, non homogenised doesn't last as long because there are all sorts of stuff that come out of the milk when sent through the high speed centrifuge that evenly mixes the cream through the milk. More moons ago than I care to remember, I worked at a milk processing and bottling factory where the tankers came in and dumped the milk into huge tanks and from there it went through the processing ...... cleaning out the centrifuge drum after a homogenisation batching required a strong stomach, but I always drank homogenised milk after that The lactose free process releases the milk sugars and makes it plenty sweet enough for my coffee, doesn't need sugar, we go through a lot of milk and the UHT cartoons last a lot longer than the 1 ltr cartons or plastic bottles, even though they are stored in the fridge (UHT lives in the cupboard until opened). We go through 2 ltr/day, but storing two x 1ltr cartons/bottles in the fridge for the following day risks the second days milk developing that turning smell and wrecks a good cup of coffee ..... can't handle the taste/texture of powered milk, so, no milk, no coffee and a rather unpleasant Terry to be around until that situation is rectified T1 Terry
The homogenizers I've used(only small bench or pilot scale) were a set of pistons than beat the fat globules into smaller ones. Other methods can do the job, but you are describing the skimmer. That will also take out dirt and blood that ended up in the milk. Larger operations use a clarifier, which is a skimmer that doesn't change fat content, before the skimmer. These are all set up in a line with the pasteurizer for a continuous operation. Of course getting the crud out will help shelf life. The only lactose free milk I've had is Fair Life. It's good, but it also undergoes ultra filtration to concentrate the protein. That will effect the flavor too.
Our farm's dairy operation ended and the centrifuge stored away in the attic before my time, so my very limited dairy experience came from staying over with the neighbors while our parents were away. I got to run their centrifuge numerous times. But it was a cream separator, not a homogenizer. I can't speak for your country, but here it seems that centrifuges are used commercially as cream separators (first stage), and as clarifiers (second stage). Then different types of equipment are used for homogenization. Here is an overview: Diary Equipment & Utilities The Role of Homogenizers and Centrifuges in Milk Processing In youth, I was never proficient at hand milking their several dairy cows. Proficiency greatly increased after retirement from engineering and spending increased time helping dad, and occasionally needing to act as a lactation coach for newborn beef (not dairy) calves that didn't naturally catch on quickly enough. We hand-milk the cow, then bottle-feed the calf, until they are able to do it themselves.
Remember feeding the lambs and poddy calves at the uncle's wheat property that was miles (2 hr drive) from any shops, so hand milked the house cows, some was left over for the lambs and calves. From memory, the centrifuge before the homogeniser was for filtering out the blood and other foreign bodies before it went into the high pressure pumps and nozzles to avoid blockages ..... but the memory is not what it once was .... and even then it wasn't brilliant ..... remember running the bottle washer for 3 hrs, until the lady chemist stormed in and asked if I'd put in any detergent at all 4,000 bottles of milk emptied down the drain ..... but they didn't put me on the bottle washing machine again, so that was a plus ..... what a mindless job that was ..... T1 Terry
Was that each What weight? The wife is into the chook butt breaker extra large eggs, 800g marked on the 12 egg carton T1 Terry
In the typical American flow described in my link, that would be the #2 centrifuge. The #1 centrifuge did the cream separation. That would be the homogenizer. I can identify with those ... I figured out early that there were greener pastures well away from the actual green pastures (and crop fields). All of us kids figured that out, and each did better than the farm-ranch ever had. Now that our generation owns it, it is essentially a retirement hobby for one sibling, with the rest of us helping out and keeping our connections there.
Mine was more a break from brain straining motorcycle mechanics to a mind numbing job for a while, but the money was so bad I went back to being a mechanic, just not on motorcycles again ..... building miniature mechanical things that were expected to rev to a zillion rpm without flying apart, yet all the parts were so small I was worried that if I dropped one I'd never find it Went back to plant mechanics for a hire company, but worked on the back hoe and bigger equipment side ..... T1 Terry
If I read this right... you found moto wrenching brain-straining...? If I was a moto tech 16y, it can't have been that straining, as I'm low on the talent scale in that career field Got good grades in tech school, scouted by Yoshimura Suzuki and FBF Ducati back when those were AMA-bigger 30y ago... but wanted a quiet career in a small town -- which L.A. was not. Split on whether it would've been better had I gone for it... but just thinking about dealing with living in L.A. as an apprentice tech on the YS team... meh. The little town I did move to in CA to wrench, was also worthless for keeping me employed, so both ended any dreams of living and working closer to my siblings. I loved the puzzles -- moto wrenching used to be nice, as in my day no emissions, all fuel metering were thru carburetors, and bikes esp were still pretty simple. No interiors, no A/C, no glass, nothing but propulsion, cooling, suspension / wheels, and lights The real skill in powersports back then, was diagnosing electrical -- which pre-IMU and infotainment, was easy. My SV650 commuter Frankenbike had all four factory's parts kludged onto it Now you need a code reader tablet, like everyone else... Being I own a 5th-gen... can't say I'm a card-carrying Luddite for wrenching simplicity. But riding my carbureted early SV, was always more fun (if not necessarily as fast) vs. my FI racebike SV.
It was working a shop that catered for everything, so as the only tech and spanner swinger on site, in the middle of a very busy city, learning the idiosyncrasies of anywhere from a posty 90cc 4 stroke to a race breed 2 stroke dirt bike, to a Laverta to a Moto Gussi to insane 4 cyl 2 strokes with a coil generated spark like a lawn mower, but somehow developed different spark timing between cycles depending on throttle position ..... but zero diagnostic information or even a port to plug in a tester, if such a thing existed .... but it was miss-firing at a certain throttle setting under load in the higher gears .... was it electrical or fuel? ..... that one turned out to be the owner had switched from the factory paper air filters, to the oiled foam type ...... but months before ..... what he didn't mention was he changed to a different brand air filter oil, because it was cheaper ....... fuel related lean run during carburettor transition between the non screw adjustable part throttle blade opening and the main fuel stage engaging ..... the new oil was less air restrictive ..... Handling all that with the general constraints of having to make money for the shop while flipping from one job to another while ever job was the rush job, then the bike owner would complain about the bill and how long it took ..... yeah nah ..... that got to be more stress than the $$ paid Heavy vehicle and plant mechanics was so much easier, someone else handled the customer side, even if it was the boss of a different section that wanted the unit yesterday because they weren't making money while it was in the workshop ...... someone else's problem Then I bought a start up workshop that couldn't keep it's head above water when I left to work on trucks for double the money ..... not every idea was a good one But I really enjoyed the drag racing and to a degree, the track racing side of it that I developed, genuine cutting edge stuff, like a cast iron pushrod 6 cyl 250 Ford engine in a street driven car that consistently ran 10 secs over the genuine 1/4 mile, or the old cast iron head Ford 2 ltr into twin cam heads and 2 x 45mm Webers carbies that revved to over 10,000rpm, the same with the old cast iron 18R Toyota engines, yet the engine number remained the same because it was built from the original block, and the owners manual had photos of that variant, even if it was never released in Australia and certainly never performed like these things T1 Terry T1 Terry
I feel my era in powersports wrenching were the last one to really know how to tune by feel -- or at least, using your senses rather than an ARM-based computer... because there were still analogue components. Now it's as bit-driven as automotive, so have to pivot to that brand of thinking. I remember a Hontech class in moto tech school, where the aim was to set pilot screw settings by tickover rpm. Start at a certain base setting, then lean out until rpm no longer climbs, then fatter 1/4 turn to protect the engine. Often the OEM tachometer weren't sensitive enough to detect the sort of change a bougie-lead-fed, bespoke service tacho could detect, so needed one for the tune. But at the track, ain't nobody got time foddat. If you did it enough times -- by trying to set w/o looking at the bespoke tacho, then using it to check your work... eventually you could do it w/o one (as I did). Obvi these sorts of skills were waaay more valuable in 2-st days than now... but my era was probably the last to use such tqs, before digital control made it all obsolete (and too much time / trouble to develop) -- when those first FI bikes reached true mass production w/ the Big Four ('98 GSX-R750W SRAD, '97 TL1000S / '98 TL1000R, & '99 Hayabusa & revamp '99 Blackbird), knew it was going to be more automotive-like from there -- including catalysts. So wasn't too surprising was out of wrenching by 2013 (only my racebike were FI, and I'd sold that long before my carbed SV commuter -- just something about the sound of inefficiency w/ carbs, on a 90ยบ V-Twin )... Yep, and always will be. Ime, heavy vehicle teching tend to have fewer fringe things go wrong, so most work is routine maint and repair of damage (Neglect & Abuse -- the two Farmer brothers). Yes the work is burlier and requires pushing your ring back in place more often but there aren't as many tossers chiseling every last dime off their RO or you'll have them in your face the rest of the morning... so yeah, can see why you pivoted. There's a reason why cast were used in so many engines before the 1970s -- it was cheap, and could absorb loads of heat stress before warping -- great if you're going to use it hard where rocks are flung thru your grille on the regular (or at 300 mph, a bee ). Plus if you want an old iron pushrod design to 5x its output, just add boost -- can't say that about many aluminium blocks. If you're getting into the weeds about power, nothing like cast to enable you
The days of filling the bottom of the block with cement, them later special resins to hold it rigid. Trying to stop gearboxes from twisting to the point they couldn't be shifted manually, then autos that would tear the bolt threads out of the alloy allowing the valve body to bypass shift pressure fluid ..... Finally resorting to special purpose built case 2 sp transmissions .... became a very rich man's game ..... too rich for my blood or wallet Down to doing battle with a Ford V10 6.8ltr dual fuel driving through a 4 sp auto in my motorhome dragging 12.5 tonne .... and a heap of "projects" like Lexus V6 and L110 2 sp 2 motor electric transmission, combined 500kw and no clue how much torque ...... I'd love to modify an MG4 XPower by modifying the two inverters to belt out the same 500kw via all 4 wheels .... but I think age will beat me ..... at 70, the brain doesn't work fast enough anymore .... but I did enjoy making my own emulsion tubes for the 45mm and 48mm Weber carbies to get the fuel delivery just where it was needed at all throttle positions for both track cars and hill climb cars T1 Terry
Yeah man that's the thing innit -- adding power's easy; getting it to the ground is hard and reliably, even harder, as in mortgage-your-house-hard, if you're running a race team. Defo a rich man's playground Re: 6.8L Triton V10 -- mid-'90s after leaving svc, had a mate doing downhill bicycle tours down Mt. Haleakala (also worked for the same downhill company as me, and when he began his own racket, I jumped ship w/ him). No-brainer, since he were an ex-Penske IndyCar chief mechanic in the '80s, and had shiteloads of tech wisdom to gift, as heard I'd wanted to become a moto tech (he pleaded with me tho, not to become a full-time, sponsored race mechanic, the life and stress rots you from the inside -- and that advice stuck, begging off offers from Yoshimura Suzuki myself). Masters in mechanical engineering from School of Mines in CO. Had a Lotus Elan in his garden w/ a 3-rotor Cosmo 20B he was sending parts off to be machined for full-time AWD, his own design (only problem, wife had the purse strings after his Indy days ). This was in mid-'90s, way before such things were available to mere mortals. Anyhow... bought a 6.8 Triton for his downhill vans, after they'd obsoleted the 7.5L V8s that had been around since early '70s. I'd driven both... and felt the 6.8s were a bit reedy going up that hill; needed lots of revs for shove, whereas the thirsty 460s were bombing around full-15-tourists + 700kg trailers full of chromium-framed beach bikes... but got max 6 mpg w/ FI, plus the 4-spd AOD trans grenading after a year, even modded for heavy-duty. 6.8s got almost 10, but same trans issues. He hated them... eventually sold and got older 460 vans from the hotels -- sent the trans, heads and ECU off to CA, to get propa trans rebuilds, but also for same mpg as the 6.8s, but more meat under the whole curve except very top, which we weren't using anyway. Who he sent them to, I still don't know to this day; probably friends of his old IndyCar network. Those plugs and that stupid well design (and the coolant leak issues) just ruin any shine that V10 design might have for me, at least for vehicles expected to do grunt work. This application's pretty neat tho -- proving that kids w/ a modicum of resources & equipment (plus YT cash) can make some pretty neat, if rather indulgent stuff: I think electric workhorses are just around the corner -- so if you're already comfy in that world, even at 70, good on ya man. Everything's gonna be electric soon; reason why I went off ICE-onlies, despite roadracing motos and being raised on howling rpm -- diminishing returns ICEs, unless if you can afford to make your own fun stuff for the weekends
That split plane crank gives it that sweet note after 3,500rpm, this one will bump the rpm limiter if you fail to pay attention when locking it second for a long hill climb. Still the standard exhaust with the crazy loop of the left hand exhaust coming around the feed in beside the right hand exhaust, then the original 3 1/2" system from there to exit out the left hand side roughly 3/4 of the way along the body, but still well forward of the rear tyres ...... all other sound fade into the background when the note kicks in ..... T1 Terry
