Rear trunk release button mod from inside.

I'm learning how to use this site.
I just realized you've tapes into the switch loop/in residential talk/ I've got to try this!!!!!!!!! If it works.My idea is to install a keyed lock/switch so I can open from outside.

If this works/I want to have a keyed switch operate from the outside!

 

I did it too, but I put in 2 switches, and a string on the latch.

 

If the rear hatch can be triggered with only 9v, I might have a way that you can trigger the rear hatch to open when the battery is dead using a 9v battery. where you put the battery connector is up to you.

 

Got me thinking. Man, might be a cool magnetic reed emergency switch for the lazy. Add like a 9V rechargeable battery with a charger to trickle charge and like with a magnetic reed switch to use in an emergency.

 

great idea, and simple and easy to implement!

 

Quick correction: a 9V battery won’t cut it for the hatch release. Eight AA cells in series (~12V) will, and they’re easy to grab in a pinch. Bigger picture, I want this built-in so if the 12V dies I can still pop the hatch to jump it—no hiking 12 miles for batteries. For now I’ve got my automation wired to a relay on the rear hatch switch so I can hit a button on my remote to open the hatch, leave the car in READY, and lock/unlock from the same remote like you would from inside.

Next experiment: I picked up a couple DC-to-DC boost converter modules to see if I can boost a single 9V up to a clean 12V just long enough to pop the hatch. I’ll add Schottky diodes so the “emergency 12V” is isolated to the hatch circuit and doesn’t backfeed the rest of the car—keep all power strictly on the latch mechanism.

Also, this is the perfect task for the new supercomputer/AI system I’m setting up. I’m feeding it every technical/wiring/workshop document I can find for hybrid vehicles so it can help map out things like this, generate wire-harness diagrams for engine and ECU swaps, and make the “how to wire it so it works” part easy. I’ll also be making ECU brain dumps so the system has the exact coding for specific ECUs.

Up next: motorized struts for powered open/close.

 

Up next: motorized struts for powered open/close.

Great focus and yes pleasch! (Perhaps one 9V and use 3 x 1.2V rechargeable as victims?)

For trunk - and perhaps the hood?

 

Prob can hide one of the smaller 12V cig lighter chargers and a 12V, or other size with DC-DC converter, power tool battery that can be used for other things or just skip the power tool battery thought and application and go directly to something cheaper like a 12V cig lighter 5V USB-C charger connected to a UPS Power Supply 18650 battery module sealed safely that is configured to 12V output.

Maybe leave the circuit off between the output and hatch switch and put a low key latching, if not using the hidden magnetic reed, switch somewhere easy to access so can flip and turn that hatch switch circuit on when needed. Diode protect I guess if not switched to be safe and offhand maybe do either way, great call on that I'm thinking as well.

From my experience, better to either have a tender of sort on the 12V battery and or a jump pack if you've not already installed some sort of blade or other isolation switch to disconnect the 12V during periods of not using. Ghetto hiding place for a key as well, I guess like those magnetic boxes somewhere hidden on the underside that won't get knocked off.